How To Replace A Conventional Septic Tank? (TOP 5 Tips)

homeadvisor.com

If the tank is worn out, it can be replaced, sometimes with a new concrete tank, or in difficult access sites, with a new plastic tank. Once you have the old tank dug up, you will disturb the header (that is the main pipe that feeds all the lines in the tile bed) and the header may need to be replaced or repaired.

Do I need permission to replace a septic tank?

It doesn’t matter how old your existing system is; you can have it upgraded, renovated or replaced entirely and you won’t require consent from your local authority to get the job done.

What is a conventional septic system?

Conventional System A decentralized wastewater treatment system consisting of a septic tank and a trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration system (drainfield). A conventional septic system is typically installed at a single-family home or small business. The name refers to the construction of the drainfield.

How does a conventional septic tank work?

Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.

How do I upgrade my septic system?

The simplest way to add to your septic tank while remaining connected to existing sewer lines is to simply add an additional septic tank. This gives your home a larger wastewater capacity, and gives your septic system more time to treat the wastewater before draining.

Do I have to replace my septic tank by 2020?

Under the new rules, if you have a specific septic tank that discharges to surface water (river, stream, ditch, etc.) you are required to upgrade or replace your septic tank treatment system to a full sewage treatment plant by 2020, or when you sell a property, if it’s prior to this date.

Is a cesspool the same as a septic tank?

A septic tank allows wastewater to flow into a leach field where it undergoes a filtration process. In contrast, a cesspool is a pit lined with cement or stone which lacks the ability to filter the waste, eventually contaminating the surrounding soil.

What are the signs that your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.

Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
You Hear Gurgling Water.
You Have A Sewage Backup.

How often should you empty your septic tank?

Does shower water go into septic tank?

From your house to the tank: Most, but not all, septic systems operate via gravity to the septic tank. Each time a toilet is flushed, water is turned on or you take a shower, the water and waste flows via gravity through the plumbing system in your house and ends up in the septic tank.

How full should my septic tank be?

A septic tank should always be “filled” to its normal liquid level, or the bottom of the outlet pipe which carries effluent to the absorption area. This normal liquid level is usually between 8” to 12” from the top of the tank on average (see picture at right).

Do you need to pump both sides of a septic tank?

Septic tanks installed after the late 1980s have two compartments, and it is important to pump out both compartments each time. Most homeowners are unaware when their septic tank has two compartments; some companies use that to their advantage, charging to pump both sides of the tank but only actually pumping out one.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.

How long do septic tanks last?

A septic system’s lifespan should be anywhere from 15 to 40 years. How long the system lasts depends on a number of factors, including construction material, soil acidity, water table, maintenance practices, and several others.

What are the new rules on septic tanks?

According to new regulations passed in 2015, if your septic tank discharges to surface water such as a ditch, stream, canal or river, you will have to upgrade your system to a sewage treatment plant or install a soakaway system by 1 January 2020.

How do you fix a slow draining septic tank?

Dump a couple of teaspoons of baking soda into your clogged drain, followed by one half cup of vinegar. This will create a fizzing action that may cause a fizz-like eruption. This is normal. This fizzing action may help to break the clog up and get things moving in your drain once again.

How do you increase the efficiency of a septic tank?

Top 5 Tips for Septic Tank Maintenance

Make your property more water efficient.
Learn what you can and can’t pour down your drains.
Carry out regular inspections.

Protect your drain field.
Have your tank pumped.

Septic Tank Installation and Pricing

To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

Receiving estimates from professional septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of documents. Examine your options for a contractor and make certain that they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as that their quote covers required preparations such as excavation and drain field testing.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home. Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected.

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested.

Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land.

Types of Septic Tanks

Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000

More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

Consequently, there will be no accumulation of solid waste that will leach into the surrounding soil or groundwater. Send an email to our Reviews Team [email protected] if you have any comments or questions regarding this post.

How Much Does a Septic Tank System Cost?

A Quick Look at Septic Tank Prices

Total cost: $3,900 on average
$1,500 to $5,000 on a sliding scale

Anaerobic septic tanks cost between $2,000 and $5,000
Aerobic septic tanks cost between $10,000 and $20,000
Gravity septic tanks cost between $1,500 and $4,000

Mound septic tanks cost between $10,000 and $20,000
Chamber septic tanks cost between $1,500 and $5,000
Conventional septic tanks cost between $2,000 and $5,000.

The wastewater generated by your household is teeming with potentially harmful germs. In order to properly dispose of waste and prevent it from backing up into your sinks and toilets, you must ensure that your septic tank is in good working condition. This Might Also Be of Interest to You: What Is the Difference Between a Septic System and a Sewer System? Everything you need to know about septic tank replacement, including how much it will cost, can be found in this article.

What Is a Septic Tank?

Dangerous germs might be found in the wastewater generated by your home. In order to properly dispose of waste and prevent it from backing up into your sinks and toilets, you must ensure that your septic tank is in proper working order. Additionally, you may be interested in the following information: So, what exactly is the difference between a septic system and a sewer system? Continue reading to find out all you need to know about septic tank replacement, including how much it will cost to have one installed.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Septic Tank?

In most cases, a new septic tank system will cost you around $3,900 to install. It costs between $1,500 and $5,000 to install a conventional 1,250-gallon tank, which is the perfect size for a three- or four-bedroom house. This price includes the tank itself, which ranges in price from $600 to $2,100 or more depending on the size and kind. Workman’s compensation is included in the price of the installation and often ranges from $1,500 to $4,000.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic tank installation and replacement costs are heavily influenced by the type of system that you select to use. Tanks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Here are a few examples:

Anaerobic Septic System

Anaerobic systems are a popular alternative for many homes since they don’t require any additional electricity or chemicals to function properly. Anaerobic systems include microorganisms that do not require oxygen to exist and hence are called anaerobic systems. Solid waste is broken down by microbes, and any leftover liquid waste is pumped out and spread beneath the surface of the soil. The garbage is naturally recycled when the water seeps into the ground and returns to the environment. The installation of these devices is between $2,000 and $5,000.

Aerobic Septic System

Aerobic systems, in contrast to anaerobic systems, make use of microorganisms that do not require oxygen to live. To activate the bacteria in the tank, oxygen is injected into it, and the bacteria then feed on the solid waste. Aerobic systems perform effectively in soils that are unsuitable for other systems and in areas where the groundwater table is elevated. It is an excellent choice for residences that are close to a body of water. Aerobic systems are more costly to install than anaerobic ones.

Gravity Septic System

At the opposite end of the spectrum from anaerobic systems, aerobic systems rely on microorganisms that do not require oxygen to thrive. To activate the bacteria, oxygen is fed into the tank, which subsequently consumes the solid waste. The use of aerobic systems is particularly advantageous in situations when the soil is unsuitable for other systems and the groundwater table is extremely high.

If your residence is near a body of water, this is an excellent alternative for you! It is more costly to establish an aerobic system. Pay between $10,000 and $20,000 for this service.

Conventional Septic System

Aerobic systems, as opposed to anaerobic systems, make use of microorganisms that do not require oxygen to thrive. The bacteria are activated by the addition of oxygen to the tank, which subsequently feeds on solid waste. Aerobic systems perform effectively in soils that are unsuitable for other systems and when the groundwater table is high. It’s a wonderful choice for residences that are close to a body of water. Installation of aerobic systems is more costly. Expect to pay between $10,000 and $20,000 for this service.

Mound Septic System

If your groundwater table is close to the surface, a mound septic system is the most appropriate option for your situation. An area for the septic system is prepared, and a sand mound is built to allow effluent from the tank to be pumped into the mound in modest amounts. The sand then acts as a filter, preventing the water from reaching the soil and groundwater. This design necessitates a large amount of floor space. They’re also expensive to install since a sand mound needs to be built before they can be utilized.

Chamber Septic System

Chamber septic systems have lately gained popularity as an alternative to traditional septic systems. They are comparable to conventional systems, with the exception that plastic chambers, rather than gravel, are utilized in the drain field. These are less difficult to build and have a lower carbon footprint. The cost of installing them ranges from $1,500 to $5,000.

Septic Tank Materials

Another aspect that influences cost is the type of material used to construct your septic tank. The following are some of the most often seen materials:

Concrete

Concrete septic tanks are the most prevalent form of septic tank because they are extremely long-lasting and reliable. They can survive for 20 to 30 years if they are properly maintained. Concrete, on the other hand, may break with time. When concrete is reinforced with rebar, the strength of the concrete is increased when subjected to pressure. Because of its weight, installation is more difficult and necessitates the use of specialized equipment. The cost of a typical-sized concrete tank ranges from $720 to $2,050 dollars.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass does not deteriorate when utilized underground, and because it is nonporous, it will not support the formation of algae. Because of the tank’s modest weight, it is easy to install. You won’t have to worry about cracking since, unlike concrete, it will not expand or shrink as the weather changes. The typical cost of a fiberglass tank is between $1,600 and $2,000.

Plastic

Tanks made of plastic are lightweight and simple to install. They’re also fairly long-lasting. Plastic tanks range in price from $830 to $1,400 on average, depending on the kind.

Steel

In spite of steel’s strength and durability, septic tanks built of steel are susceptible to rust and collapse if not properly maintained.

As a result, several municipal governments have tightened their restrictions in order to discourage their usage. Typically, you’ll discover them in regions where the system was already in operation. If you are able to have one installed, they range in price from $900 to $9,900.

What Size Septic Tank Do You Need?

The size of your septic tank is normally decided by the number of bedrooms in your house. This is used to calculate the amount of water that will flow through the system on a daily basis. In general, the expense of a system increases in direct proportion to its size.

Two Bedrooms

A septic system with a minimum of a 750-gallon septic tank is required for a two-bedroom residence. However, in many localities, a 1,000-gallon tank is the least capacity that may be accommodated.

Three Bedrooms

A minimum of a 1,000-gallon water tank is required for a three-bedroom residence, which handles around 360 gallons of water each day on a daily basis.

Four Bedrooms

A bigger tank, with a minimum volume of 1,250 gallons, is required for a four-bedroom residence. It is capable of handling around 480 to 600 gallons of water each day. Additional Related Articles:

How to keep the cost of septic tank pumping to a bare minimum
3 Symptoms of Sewer and Septic System Problems

Do you have a clogged sewer line? Here’s What You Should Do
Water Sewer Line Repair: Do It Yourself or Hire a Professional
Listed here are 15 common plumbing problems that every homeowner should be aware of.

Septic Tank Repair Costs

It’s conceivable that only a certain component of your septic tank has to be replaced rather than the complete tank. Repairs and replacement parts can be purchased for a fraction of the cost of a complete system replacement. The following are some of the most often seen repairs:

Drain Field

Drain fields can get overloaded and flood, resulting in sewage backing up into toilets and sinks. The cost of replacing a drain or leach field ranges from $3,500 to $11,000.

Tank Pump

Sewage backup in toilets and sinks can occur when drain fields get overloaded and overflow. It costs between $3,500 and $11,000 to repair a drain or leach field.

Tank Filter

Drain fields can get overloaded and flooded, resulting in a backup of sewage in toilets and sinks, among other things. Costs for drain or leach field replacements range from $3,500 to $11,500.

Tank Lid

Concrete coverings and steel lids may break and corrode as a result of exposure to the elements. In most cases, you can repair a septic tank lid on your own for about $35 and $60. In most cases, having it changed by a professional is more expensive.

Tank Baffle

The baffle is responsible for directing wastewater through the septic tank. A replacement baffle piece will cost between $23 and $44 dollars.

Additional Factors to Consider

Wastewater is directed through a baffle into a holding tank. A replacement baffle piece will cost between $23 and $44.

How Long Does a Septic Tank Last?

The lifespan of a septic tank varies based on the material used and the type of system used. The lifespan of a septic tank might be reduced if the tank becomes clogged due to roots or floods from groundwater. Septic systems have a lifespan of 15 to 20 years on average. Maintaining your septic tank on a regular basis is the most effective approach to extend its life. Keep in mind that maintaining your tank entails more than just draining out the contents; it’s also crucial to have a professional evaluate your tank on a regular basis and perform routine maintenance.

In the event that you have a plan in place, you can call our 24-hour repair hotline anytime a covered problem develops. We’ll dispatch one of our locally based, licensed, and highly qualified professionals to complete the work for you right away.

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.

The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:

Available space
Terrain
Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve

Location of the well and/or nearby wells
And other factors.

The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:

The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater

2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:

Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings

A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
PVC primer and adhesive
A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)

Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
Shovel

Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)

Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary

A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
And a septic tank.

Laser transit and grade pole, as well as a backhoe A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)

A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap

PVC primer and adhesive
4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
Hammer drill and bits (in order to drill through the wall if required)

(To seal around the pipe if it is passing through a wall) Hydraulic cement Shovel
Cleaned stone measuring an inch and a half in thickness (amount varies according on system size)
The following items are required: tape measures (regular as well as at least a 100′ length)

Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if permitted)
If you’re running more than two laterals, you’ll need a distribution box, which may be either concrete or plastic. You’ll also need Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic) to seal the risers. A septic filter (such as the Zoeller 170 or equivalent) may also be needed.

The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.

Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.

It is important to use a test cap on the end that will be entering the structure. The hole should be sealed with hydraulic cement both inside and outside if it is going through the wall
Avoid running too much pitch out to the tank if it is going through the floor. It is possible that if there is an excessive amount of solids, the water will flow away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. In addition, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.

Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.

4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement

A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.

Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.

Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement

Create a new question

Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface

Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

More information on the replies Inquire about something There are 200 characters remaining. Include your email address so that you may be notified when this question has been resolved. SubmitAdvertisement

The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time

Thank you for submitting a suggestion for consideration! Advertisement

Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position when installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

Things You’ll Need

About This Article

The writers of this page have together authored a page that has been read 498,709 times.

Did this article help you?

The installation of a septic tank is not a do-it-yourself activity. Image courtesy of Kwangmoozaa/iStock/Getty Images. You shouldn’t try to build a septic system yourself unless you are a heavy equipment operator or a professional. Even if you have heavy gear at your disposal and are familiar with how to use it, you will still require a significant amount of expert assistance. There are many professionals you’ll need: a soil expert to assess the site, an engineer to design an acceptable system, a plumbing contractor to construct and connect pipes, and maybe an electrician to assist with the installation of any pumps or timers that may be necessary.

Septic System Design Variations

It is not recommended that you do a do-it-yourself septic tank installation. Image courtesy of Kwangmoozaa/iStock/GettyImages.com Septic system installation is not a do-it-yourself activity unless you’re a heavy equipment operator. Although you may have access to heavy machinery and be familiar with its operation, you will still require a significant amount of professional assistance. There are many professionals you’ll need: a soil expert to analyze the site, an engineer to design an acceptable system, a plumbing contractor to construct and connect pipes, and maybe an electrician to assist with the installation of any pumps or timers that may be necessary.

All of these procedures can be carried out by a homeowner, but local health authorities will insist that licensed people be in control of the process.

Installation Isn’t a Straight Shot

The designs are in hand, but it is not always a straight line from there to the actual installation for the homeowner who is working with an engineering firm. Mr. Rooter, in fact, gives the following advise to homeowners who are considering installing their own septic components: Don’t. Just too many things may go wrong with a system, leading to poor drainage, inadequate plumbing in the house, or pollution of the local water table, to mention. For those who are inclined to do it themselves, or for whom the circumstances dictate that they do it themselves, and who have access to an excavator and crane, the installation of a conventional system is relatively straightforward to comprehend and execute.

Installing a Conventional Septic System

A traditional septic installation begins with the excavation of a hole for the tank in accordance with the placement specifications provided on your approved plan. After putting the tank into the hole, you link it to the building sewer using 3- or 4-inch waste pipe, which must maintain a minimum slope toward the tank, and you extend a drain pipe from the other end of the tank to a distribution box positioned in the drain field. After that, you’ll need to dig a series of parallel trenches that will reach from this box all the way across the drain field.

Connect the pipes to the distribution box and cover the pipes with a sheet of plywood.
In order for a gravity-fed septic system to function properly, the building and drain field must be on a consistent downhill slope.
An alarm system that warns you if a fault occurs must be linked to the pump in addition to the power source.
For this reason, having the pump installed by a professional electrician who can guarantee the job is highly advised.

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration. The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

Septic Tank, Conventional System, Chamber System, Drip Distribution System, Aerobic Treatment Unit, Mound Systems, Recirculating Sand Filter System, Evapotranspiration System, Constructed Wetland System, Cluster / Community System, etc.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater.

Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

Septic tanks and trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration systems are two types of decentralized wastewater treatment systems (drainfield). When it comes to single-family homes and small businesses, a traditional septic system is the most common type of system. For decades, people have used a gravel/stone drainfield as a method of water drainage. The term is derived from the process of constructing the drainfield. A short underground trench made of stone or gravel collects wastewater from the septic tank in this configuration, which is commonly used.

Effluent filters through the stone and is further cleaned by microorganisms once it reaches the soil below the gravel/stone trench, which is located below the trench.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.
This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.
Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes.
The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

This method necessitates the use of additional components, such as electrical power, which results in a rise in costs as well as higher maintenance.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Sand filter systems can be built either above or below ground, depending on the use. The effluent is discharged from the septic tank into a pump compartment. Afterwards, it is pushed into the sand filter. The sand filter is often made of PVC or a concrete box that is filled with a sand-like substance. The effluent is pushed through the pipes at the top of the filter under low pressure to the drain. As the effluent exits the pipelines, it is treated as it passes through the sand filtering system.

However, sand filters are more costly than a standard septic system because they provide a higher level of nutrient treatment and are thus better suited for areas with high water tables or that are adjacent to bodies of water.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective.

The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation. These systems perform effectively in shallow soil; but, if it rains or snows excessively, they are at risk of failing completely.

Constructed Wetland System

Construction of a manufactured wetland is intended to simulate the treatment processes that occur in natural wetland areas. Wastewater goes from the septic tank and into the wetland cell, where it is treated. Afterwards, the wastewater goes into the media, where it is cleaned by microorganisms, plants, and other media that eliminate pathogens and nutrients. Typically, a wetland cell is constructed with an impermeable liner, gravel and sand fill, and the necessary wetland plants, all of which must be capable of withstanding the constant saturation of the surrounding environment.

As wastewater travels through the wetland, it may escape the wetland and flow onto a drainfield, where it will undergo more wastewater treatment before being absorbed into the soil by bacteria.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

Changing From a Conventional Septic System to an Aerobic System

Changes to septic system laws are on their way for much of the United States, and they will have an impact on many homeowners who have traditional septic systems. When a septic system becomes old and/or poorly managed, the owners of these systems may be faced with the option of shifting to an aerobic treatment procedure. Many property owners around the country have informed us that they have been asked to convert or replace their existing septic treatment systems with an aerobic treatment system, which we believe is correct.

Aerobic and septic treatment methods are two distinct types of treatment processes.

In this case, “aerobic treatment system” (ATS) or something like would be more appropriate.

Changes to septic system rules are on their way for much of the United States, and they will have an impact on many people who have traditional septic systems. The owners of these systems, particularly if the septic system is old and/or badly managed, may be faced with the option of switching to an aerobic treatment procedure. Many property owners around the nation have informed us that they have been asked to convert or replace their existing septic treatment systems with an aerobic treatment system, which we have confirmed. Only one small point to make about the terminology used in this post: the term “aerobic septic system” was used incorrectly throughout the article. The treatment techniques of aerobic and septic are distinct. It is this word that we are employing because we have discovered that it is frequently used by many of our clients. Aerobic therapy system (ATS) or anything along those lines would be a more accurate description. Additionally, this blog article will address the following questions in addition to offering facts and specifics.

What is the difference between a septic tank and an aerobic septic system?

Whether there is air or not, Simple answer: an aerobic septic system, also known as an aerobic treatment system, employs air supplied into the water being treated to support aerobic bacteria or microorganisms that devour contaminants present in the wastewater. A septic tank makes use of anaerobic bacteria, which do not require oxygen to survive, in order to devour the toxins present in the wastewater. Bacteria that are aerobic vs anaerobic In comparison to anaerobic bacteria, aerobic microbes absorb contaminants more quickly and thoroughly.

Equipment From the standpoint of equipment, a septic system is far less complicated than an aerobic treatment system.

The tank will be equipped with a number of access points for inspection and pumping.

An aerobic treatment system, like an anaerobic treatment system, is primarily comprised of a single tank that is separated into many chambers.

For this purpose, extra equipment such as mixers, air compressors, media, and other ways will be required. These items will require electrical power and maintenance in order to function properly.

Why convert a septic tank to an aerobic septic system?

There are a variety of reasons to switch from septic to aerobic systems:

Changes in permit regulations that mandate the conversion from a septic system to an aerobic system Drain field circumstances necessitate a more intensive degree of treatment than that provided by aerobic therapy. an ardent desire to preserve the environment Drinking wells and an aquifer are in close vicinity

Overall, an aerobic treatment system is beneficial if you want better treatment of your sewage and to increase the quality of the water that you are re-introducing into the ecosystem. Please keep in mind that the water that you put back into the ground ultimately comes out of your tap (particularly if you use a well for drinking water).

How do you convert a septic tank to an aerobic septic system?

After deciding that an aerobic system is the best option for your septic tank, the next step is to figure out what to do with it. You have two fundamental options to consider:

After deciding that an aerobic system is the best option for your septic tank, what should you do next? You have two basic options to choose from:

This blog entry is primarily concerned with the treatment system itself; it does not discuss the drain field or any concerns that may arise in connection with drain fields. Drain fields that are blocked or damaged must be treated separately from the rest of the plumbing system. Your drain field will not be repaired simply by switching from septic to aerobic treatment! Option 1: Converting a septic tank to an aerobic treatment system by installing additional equipment. There are systems available that may be put in a septic tank to convert it to an aerobic treatment process, which is more environmentally friendly.

By introducing air, however, we will also be mixing the contents of the tank, which means that solids that would normally be sat at the bottom of the tank will now be whirling about the tank when the air is introduced.
If you have a septic system that has numerous compartments, you should add air to the upstream (first) compartment and use the downstream (second) compartment for settling the wastewater.
If you have a pump tank for your drain field that is located downstream of the septic tank, that tank might be utilized for settling.
Only the treatment system itself is discussed in this blog article.
Drain fields that are obstructed or damaged must be treated independently from the rest of the drainage system.
A septic tank may be converted into an aerobic treatment system by installing the necessary equipment.
They are generally comprised of a tiny air compressor, a few feet of tubing, and a diffuser that is installed in the sewage system.
An additional settling compartment will need to be added downstream of the compartment that would get aeration.
The mixing will most likely result in an excessive amount of particles being flushed from your system, clogging your drain field in a very short period of time if you have only one compartment septic tank.

Because a single compartment septic tank lacks a pump tank, you will need to add a settling tank downstream of your septic tank to enable solids to settle out prior to discharge or build some type of filter system, or both to properly treat your septic waste.

Septic Tank Repair or Replace?

Septic system problems are indicated when sewage backs up into the home or when foul aromas permeate the backyard and surround the house. Based on the nature of the problem, you will have to make some difficult decisions about whether to fix or replace the equipment in question. If the problem is a broken pipe, repairing it might cost only a few hundred dollars. It’s possible that you’ll end up spending $2,000 to $10,000 if the drainfield needs to be replaced. The worst-case scenario is that you require an alternate treatment system that costs $15,000 or more.

First Steps in a Septic Emergency

Septic system problems are indicated when sewage backs up into the house or when foul aromas permeate the backyard and surround the home. Your next step will be to determine whether or not to repair or replace the equipment, which will depend on the root cause of the issue. Repairing a damaged pipe might cost as little as a few hundred dollars in some instances. You might, however, be out $2,000 to $10,000 if the drainfield needs to be replaced. Best case scenario: You require a different treatment system, which will cost you at least $15,000 (or more).

Drainfield Failures

They are not, however, long-term answers. Septic tanks that are not pumped frequently enough are frequently responsible for drainfield failure. Waterfall sludge and scum layers can accumulate to such a degree that there is little room for wastewater to pool while the constituents separate. The outcome is foul water rising up to the surface because oil and particles have been allowed to enter the drainfield and clog it up. By the time you realize, the damage has already been done, and the drainfield will need to be replaced.

According to Craig Mains of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse, a non-profit that provides advice to the septic system industry, beneficial microbes in the soil around the drainfield become so abundant that they literally clog the soil, preventing it from properly absorbing the water.

It is necessary to discard your clogged drainfield and start over from scratch if it is unable to be repaired.

The bacteria at the old location will eventually starve to death due to a lack of food, and the site will degrade.

When to Repair the Problem

Some issues can be resolved pretty quickly and easily. If there is standing water or a sewage stench between the septic tank and the drainfield, it is possible that the problem is nothing more than a broken pipe, which costs around $600 to replace. If you have a sophisticated treatment system, the maintenance provider may need to make adjustments or replace a component. In the event that you have an aerobic treatment unit—one that aerates the tank to aid in the breakdown of waste—and you have been away for an extended length of time, the helpful bacteria may have died off.

It’s possible that you’ll only need to utilize your system sparingly for a few weeks until the population recovers.

When to Replace System Components

When a drainfield fails, it is almost always impossible to restore it. It’s likely that you’ll need to replace some or all of your system. When combining treatment and drainfield alternatives, there are a variety of options available, and your selections may have a significant influence on your budget as well as how much landscaping you need to repair and how you can utilize your property in the future. For example, if you want to set aside area for a future garage, you might be ready to spend a little more money on a compact irrigation system.

Reusing the tank can save you $1,000 or more in the long run, while also preserving that portion of your yard.

Getting it Fixed

For further information on the protocols you must follow when repairing or rebuilding a septic system, consult the websites of your local health department and state environmental agency—you may even be able to discover a list of licensed repair contractors there. Make contact with a couple and arrange visits. Alternatively, if you have an advanced treatment system that is covered by an annual maintenance contract, contact the business that is currently in charge of your system.

Paying for Septic Repairs

For more information on the processes you must follow when repairing or replacing a septic system, visit the websites of your local health department and state environmental agency—you may even be able to discover a list of licensed repair contractors there. In order to arrange visits, call a couple and make a time. You might also contact the firm that is currently in charge of managing your advanced treatment system if you have one with an annual maintenance contract.