How To Make A Septic Tank Out Of 300 Gallon Metal Tank? (Correct answer)

Cut a 4 in (10 cm) hole in the first drum on the opposite side as the hole in the top. Place the hole about 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) down from the top of the drum and make sure it lines up with the hole on top of the tank. Cut the hole with a saber saw or a hole saw.

Can a septic tank be made of metal?

Types of Septic Tank Materials There are four major materials that septic tanks are manufactured with: concrete, steel, fiberglass, and plastic. Concrete has been the most widely used septic tank material since the 1880s. These tanks are durable enough to last for roughly 40 years.

How long will a steel septic tank last?

The life expectancy of a steel tank is shorter than a concrete one. Inspectapedia estimates that a steel tank baffles will rust out in 15 to 20 years and may collapse if driven over, but a concrete tank will last 40 years or more as long as the wastewater is not acidic.

What material is best for a septic tank?

The best choice is a precast concrete septic tank. Precast septic tanks hold many advantages over plastic, steel, or fiberglass tanks. This is why so many cities and towns actually require the use of concrete septic tanks.

Do septic tanks have metal lids?

You can locate the lid of your septic tank by poking the ground every few feet with a metal probe. You can also use a metal detector, as most lids have a metal handle or fastener on them to keep the lid closed. Another reason you might not be able to find your lid is due to the depth it was buried.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

What is the smallest septic tank available?

If you’re looking to install a septic system, the smallest tank size you’re likely to find is 750-gallon, which will accommodate one to two bedrooms. You can also opt for a 1,000-gallon system, which will handle two to four bedrooms.

How big of a septic tank do I need?

The larger your home, the larger the septic tank you’re going to need. For instance, a house smaller than 1,500 square feet usually requires a 750 to 1,000-gallon tank. On the other hand, a bigger home of approximately 2,500 square feet will need a bigger tank, more than the 1,000-gallon range.

What size septic tank do I need for a tiny house?

Tiny homes typically require a 500 to 1,000-gallon septic tank. Though, it’s not always possible to implement a tank of this size. In some states, for example, the minimum tank size is 1,000 gallons. There may be exceptions to this rule if your home is on wheels.

Can a septic system last forever?

How long does a septic system last? On average, a new septic system will last for 20-30 years. Soil quality – the quality of soil will determine how durable your septic tank is. For instance, acidic groundwater can corrode a concrete septic tank.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.

When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.

Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.

Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.

It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.

Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks

1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them lighter

2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they don’t move or shift once they are in place. Advertisement
s3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw and drilling them out. Advertisement

Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground

1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.

Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet

2Place the drum at the end of the trench, with one side hole drilled in it. When you place the drum on the floor, make sure it is level. Check to see sure the drum’s top is at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the surface of the water. 3 Dig a hole that is one foot (30 cm) deeper than the first to accommodate the positioning of the second drum in front of the first. In order to ensure a tight fit and prevent the drum from shifting, make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re inserting in it. 4 The hole should be leveled with gravel until a 90-degree curve can be made to connect the top drum’s hole on one side to the toilet flange on the other. Check the alignment of the holes in the 90-degree bend between the two drums by dry fitting it between the two drums. If you need to improve the alignment of the pipe line, dig the hole a little deeper. 5 To make the bend, cut 31 2in (8.9 cm) pieces of ABS pipe and adhere them to the bend with epoxy or hot glue. With a hacksaw, cut the ABSpipe parts, also known as nipples. 6 Insert the pieces into the bend and hold them in place using PVC adhesive. Check the fit between the two drums to ensure that they are in alignment. Insert the end of the 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole of the first drum and tighten the nut. 7Glue the end of the 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the second tank, making sure that the nipple on the other end aligns with the hole on the top of the second drum. To hold the bent in place, apply PVC adhesive to the inside of the curve. Don’t be concerned about the link to the first drum just yet
You’ll make that connection later. 8. Glue a Y-bend to a 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple, and then bend the angled piece of the Y-bend at a 45-degree angle. Using your PVC adhesive, attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend and let it dry. Assemble the Y-bend and align the angled pipe on it so it meets the incoming waste line, then glue it onto the toilet flange. 9 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipples are cut and glued to one end of the 45-degree bends at the bottom of the lower drum, and they are then inserted into the side of the lower drum. Directional bends are defined as those that are perpendicular to the bottom of the trench at their ends. Advertisement

Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes

Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one

5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)
5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench

Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes
7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance

7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum
9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum

10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. Fill up any gaps in the slope by adding or removing gravel under the pipe. Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends that connect the lower and top drums, respectively, with silicone. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks
12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Continue filling the drum until it is completely filled, then secure the top with a cap to keep out the elements. Advertisement

Community Q A

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Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more
Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity

Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And could I include antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.

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Warnings

This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.

Things You’ll Need

3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal

80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)

4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)

2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

Duct tape
4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

About This Article

wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is carefully monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and meets our high quality standards. A total of 2,321,816 people have looked at this article. Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.

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Ace Septic TanksAce Roto-Mold septic tanks are stronger, easier to install, and less costly than old-fashioned concrete septic tanks- yet they still offer the quality construction and safety you expect. Manufactured from high-density polyethylene with U.V. inhibitors, Ace Roto-Mold tanks utilize a horizontal flow designed for below ground installations up to 36 inches. Ace Tanks are IAPMO approved and have passed strenuous stress tests. Each tank carries an individual serial code and is fully document from date of manufacture.Ace Roto-Mold septic tanks are designed and manufactured with rigorous quality controls. The trapezoidal deep-rib design and interior baffle system make Ace Tanks the industry choice. Only Ace tanks feature a custom-molded gasket in the lid. Manufactured from extruded Nitrile rubber, the gasket snaps into the lid and ensures a watertight seal. Our exclusive lid design locks in place with nylon ties, eliminating the need for metal fasteners that can corrode and fail.Ace’s unique tank baffle system slows the flow of wastewater and directs it to the middle of the tank so wastewater can separate from solids. An outlet baffles allows the partially treated liquids to flow out for further treatment. Advantages of Ace’s baffle design include added strength, versatility, and ease of installation.Septic tanks are available in one-compartment and two-compartment designs and are manufactured for containment of liquids up to 1.7 specific gravity.Ace Septic / Cistern Tank AccessoriesRemember to order your state specific internal plumbing kit. Links:Septic Tank Product Description, Function and ServiceSeptic Tank Installation ProceduresSpherical Septic Tank Installation ProceduresSeptic Tank Divider Installation Procedures

Norwesco Septic Tanks300 + 500 Gallon Spheres may be used as Septic Holding Tanks (Pump Out).SeeUnderground Water Tanksfor others available for Septic Holding Tanks.The world’s leading manufacturer of polyethylene tanks, NORWESCO has been producing polyethylene septic tanks since 1980. With that kind of experience, NORWESCO offers you proven products that you can count on for years of dependable, trouble-free service.For septic system replacement and new home construction, NORWESCO‘s polyethylene septic tanks are designed for durability and quick, easy installation. Any NORWESCO septic tank can be transported to the job site in a pickup truck and carried by just two people. That enables you to install the tank on your schedule.All NORWESCO septic tanks are manufactured by means of the rotational molding process, which produces a one-piece, seamless, watertight tank. Polyethylene is unaffected by soil chemicals and by the chemicals and gases present in sewage, so NORWESCO septic tanks will not rust or corrode and require no additional coatings as other tanks do. NORWESCO’s strict quality guidelines ensure an environmentally safe septic tank.NORWESCO septic tanks come equipped with manhole covers and detailed installation procedures. Manhole extensions and lid/riser combinations are available to bring tank access to grade and to meet code specifications. The 750, 1000, 1250 and 1500 gallon sizes are available in both one and two compartment configurations.NORWESCO septic tanks are for BELOW GROUND USE ONLY. Using the tanks above ground may result in deformation of the tank. It is far more cost-effective to utilize one of NORWESCO’s above ground tanks that are specifically designed for above ground use and applications.PRE-PLUMBING: All of our NORWESCO septic tanks that are 750 working gallons andabove are “pre-plumbed” with PVC inlet and outlet assemblies. Assemblies andtheir components are made of either SDR35 or SCH40 PVC depending on state orlocal code requirements. All assemblies are sized according to code requirementsas well. Finally, an EPDM gasket is placed between the “T” assembly and thetank wall to assure watertightness. NORWESCO septic tanks will arrive to youready for installation.WATERTIGHT DOMED LIDS: All septic tanks manufactured at all facilities, are equipped with a watertight domed lid. This domed lid is significantly stronger than previous lids we have offered. When leaving our factory, the lid(s) will be attached to the tank with stainless steel screws and come standard with a foamed, polyethylene gasket between the lid and the tank. This gasket provides a watertight seal at the lid area.MANHOLE EXTENSIONS AND LID/RISER COMBINATIONS: Again, at all facilities, the notches in the manhole area(s) of the tank have been removed as the “interruption” in the manhole, or circle, weakens that area. The lugs on the accessories have also been removed. See tank accessories for more information on the accessory items.NORWESCO septic tanks are backed by a full three-year warranty and have been certified by state and local health departments from coast to coast. Where applicable, NORWESCO septic tanks have been certified by both IAPMO and CSA.Across the United States and Canada, there are certain health code requirements that our tanks must meet. These codes are regulated by the state, county or province.Click here for Septic Tanks in HawaiiClick here for SepticWater Tank Accessories

Septic Tank Condition – How to Inspect Steel Septic Tanks

INSTRUCTIONS: SUBMIT A QUESTION OR COMMENTONSTEEL septic tanks: unique difficulties, inspection, installation, troubleshooting, repairs, age, and longevity

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Steel septic tank warnings include the following: This paper outlines how to examine the state of a septic tank, with additional considerations for examining steel septic tanks being included in addition. Steel septic tanks are a critical component of onsite wastewater disposal systems, and they must be regularly inspected. Steels septic tank faults, life expectancy, specific issues, and repair procedures are discussed in detail.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

STEEL SEPTIC TANKS – Life Expectancy, What Breaks, What to Look For, How to Fix a Damaged or Leaky Steel Septic Tank or Tank Cover or Baffle

Steel septic tanks generally survive 20-25 years before rusting and collapsing due to corrosion. If you don’t do this, steel baffles may rust off, clogging the drain field with sludge, the tank top may become corroded and dangerous, or the tank bottom may have rusted through before the time limit. The steel septic tank baffle can be seen in the lower left corner of this photograph; did you notice that the top corners of the baffle have corroded away over time? The steel septic tank lid in this photograph had rusted through and was covered with brush and roughly two inches of earth, as depicted in the photograph.

Guide to Steel Septic Tank Maintenance and Repair

Make sure to keep surface and roof runoff away from steel septic tanks or any other type of septic tank, as well as other septic system components such as D-boxes and drainfields. When unwelcome water is allowed to enter the system, it increases the danger of drainfield collapse and the failure of the septic system. The steel septic tank in the photograph is not only too close to the home (as was customary at the time of its construction in the 1960s), but it is also too close to a roof drainage downspout, which is a safety hazard.

Special Hazard Warning for Steel Septic Tank Covers

Keep an eye out for: Steel tank covers that have rusted may be deadly! Covers that are rusted might collapse. As recently as December 1997, we have received reports of children and adults who have died as a result of this danger. In 2000, the author was consulted in the case of a death involving an adult who had fallen into a sanitary sewer. During a construction inspection, the author, although taking caution not to trip over a buried, rusted-through steel septic tank lid, was caught by surprise (shown in the photos above on this page).

This might be a steel septic tank that has collapsed, or it could be a steel access riser to a cesspool that has been constructed out of stones.

Furthermore, there was no secure cover.

Septic gases are very hazardous and can cause death within minutes of being exposed to them.

Special Problem with Rusted Off Baffles in Steel Septic Tanks – repair may be possible

Baffling issues with steel septic tanks: On a steel septic tank, the baffles at the inlet and exit are frequently rusted out and break off before the owner notices that the tank requires repair or replacement. It is on the right side of the manhole of this septic tank (picture at left).

Solids are able to enter the soil absorption system as a result of this degradation. The steel septic tank baffle depicted in the photo above on this page has rusted away at the top, which can be seen in the bottom left of the tank top aperture in the photo above.

Should we repair a steel septic tank that has lost its baffles?

If a steel septic tank is otherwise in good condition, but its baffles have gotten broken or have been lost totally, placing a plastic tee into the intake and outlet waste lines may be a viable alternative solution. Baffling, or septic tank teeing, is used to prevent solid waste from flowing out of the tank into the drainfield, as well as to prevent waste flow into the tank from the building it serves from being blocked. For further information on this septic system component, please seeSEPTIC TANK TEES (PDF).

Here’s an example: this steel septic tank is still holding effluent, but its sides are crumbling and its baffles have been removed, and it is likely missing its protective septic tank cover.

Until the tank can be replaced, it should be cordoned off and kept out of reach of the public and employees.

Steel Septic Tank SideBottom Rust-Out, Leaks, Abnormal Sewage Levels

Steel tank bottoms rust away, allowing effluent to escape into the soils around the tank and, in certain cases, creating a big void in the tank at the time of testing, so causing a loading or dye test to be invalidated. Because steel tank tops can be replaced while the previous tank is still in place, the condition of the top itself is not a good predictor of the state of the tank in question. You may tell whether a steel septic tank has a leak if the bottom or lower sides are missing by observing that the amount of sewage in the septic tank is lower than the level of sewage in the outlet baffle or pipe for a septic tank that is currently in use and has not been pumped out.

Technical content contributors

Thank you so much to

In addition to being a trained ASHI home inspector, a Licensed Pesticide Applicator, a BPI Building Analyst, and an Envelope Professional with 18 years of house inspection experience, Lawrence Transue is also a Pennsylvania building scientist and consultant. Lawrence Transue may be reached at the following numbers: 610.417.0763 and by email:[email protected] His WEB SITE and FACEBOOK pages are also worth checking out.

Reader CommentsQ A

Lola Thank you for taking the time to leave such a valuable remark. When you have your septic tank pumped, you may want to have a professional evaluate the baffles and the tank itself to ensure that they are in good working order. Considering the age of the tank, it would not be surprising if the baffles and even the sides and bottom of the tank had not rusted away by now @ Crystal, Yes, this is a possibility. On our steel septic tank, which was built in 1960, we have a concrete lid. It is still operational.

Crystal Anything is conceivable when it comes to the variety of things that individuals do to and with their structures, but it would be odd to find a concrete cover on a metal septic tank.

Be cautious if you notice signs that the septic tank lid is tipping, settling, breaking, or collapsing; this is a very dangerous and potentially fatal hazard (if someone falls into the tank).

Hello, we have a concrete cover on our septic tank that we would like to remove.

Is it feasible to install a concrete cover on top of a metal septic tank?. Continue reading atSEPTIC TANK BAFFLES, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for more information. Alternatively, consider the following:

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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Underground Septic Holding Tanks

Protankprovides the highest-quality polyethylene plastic below-ground storage tanks available on the market today, including: Below-ground septic tanks are available in capacities ranging from 200 to 1500 gallons. Our plastic septic tanks are built to last and are intended for quick and simple installation. In addition, because our plastic septic tanks are composed of polyethylene, they are resistant to soil chemicals as well as to the chemicals and gases contained in sewage, which means that our plastic septic tanks will not rust or corrosion.

We also provide pre-plumbed septic tanks, which are pre-plumbed in accordance with state regulations.
Tanks that have been PRE-PLUMBED are sent to you ready to be installed.

Tees are measured and cut to meet the requirements of each state code, ensuring that the tank you get is ready for installation.
If you want assistance in selecting the most appropriate septic tank for your needs, our sales staff would be happy to assist you.

Plastic Septic Holding Tanks

septic tanks are offered for residential, agricultural, commercial, and job site uses. Both underground and above ground septic tanks may be installed. Underground septic tanks are offered in a range of capacity ranging from 200 to 5025 gallons. Above-ground septic tanks are offered in capacities ranging from 250 to 440 gallons. All septic tanks are rotationally molded from high density polyethylene (HDPE) resin, resulting in a seamless and robust septic tank that is resistant to corrosion, rust, impact, and punctures.

Plastic septic tanks, such as polyethylene, are resistant to the chemicals and gases that may be present in soil or sewage.
Plastic septic tanks offer a high level of tolerance to variations in weather and temperature, making them extremely adaptable to changing environmental conditions.
They have not been approved by the FDA for use with drinking water.

Septic tanks are the most important component of a comprehensive septic system.
Known by several other names, underground septic tanks are also referred to as cesspits, cesspool tanks, below-ground storage tanks, sewer holding tanks, sewage holding tanks, waste holding tanks, and blackwater tanks.
Protank’s septic tanks are designed to be long-lasting and simple to install, making them a popular choice.

They are offered in two different configurations: unplumbed or pre-plumbed installation ready.

They are available in either a single compartment or a multiple compartment configuration.

Pump tanks can be equipped with additional inlets and outputs upon request.

An extension or riser can be added to any of the underground septic tanks manufactured by Protank.

Above-ground septic tanks are meant to be freestanding, having a low profile and a rectangular flat form that allows them to be installed beneath building foundations.

In addition to being lightweight, plastic above-ground septic tanks are easy to handle with two people.

There are several pre-installed port choices available.

There are a few customizing options available. Custom fabrication choices include things like connections, apertures, lids, inlets, and outlets, to name a few. For queries about polyethylene septic tanks, bespoke manufacturing, or for further information, please contact us.

300 Gallon Plastic Septic Pump Tank

However, they still provide the excellent structure and safety that you expect from an Ace Roto-Mold septic tank. They are stronger, less difficult to install, and less expensive than traditional concrete septic tanks. Ace Roto-Mold tanks, which are made of high-density polyethylene with ultraviolet inhibitors, have a horizontal flow that is suitable for below-ground installations up to 36 inches in depth. NSF has certified that the 1000, 1250, and 1500 gallon double-compartment septic tanks meet or exceed the requirements of the IAPMO Z1000 and CAN/CSA-B-66 standards.

A thorough quality control process is used in the design and construction of Ace Roto-Mold septic tanks.

Ace tanks are the only ones that have a custom-molded gasket in the lid.
With our innovative lid design, nylon ties hold the lid in place, avoiding the need for metal fasteners that might corrode and fail in the long run.
By using an exit baffle, you may enable the partially treated liquids to flow out and be treated further.

Septic tanks are available in one-compartment and two-compartment configurations, and they are designed to hold liquids with specific gravities up to 1.7.

How Does a Septic Tank Work?

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family You may save a lot of money if you understand how a sewage treatment system works—and what can go wrong—so that you can handle your own septic system maintenance.

How does a septic tank work?

Pumping the tank on a regular basis eliminates sludge and scum, which helps to keep a septic system in good working order. It is possible for a well-designed and well built septic system to last for decades, or it might collapse in a matter of years. It is entirely up to you as long as you can answer the question of how do septic tanks function. Healthy septic systems are very inexpensive to maintain, but digging up and replacing a septic system that has completely collapsed may easily cost tens of thousands in labor and material costs.

It’s critical to understand how a septic tank works in order to maintain one.

Let’s take a look below ground and observe what happens in a properly operating septic system, shall we? After that, I’ll explain why things go wrong and offer you some tips on how to keep your system in peak operating condition.

Understand that a septic system is a cafeteria for bacteria

Bacteria are responsible for the proper operation of a septic system. They decompose garbage, resulting in water that is clean enough to safely trickle down into the earth’s surface. The entire system is set up to keep bacteria healthy and busy at all times. Some of them reside in the tank, but the majority of them are found in the drain field. 1. The septic tank is the final destination for all waste. 2. The majority of the tank is filled with watery waste, referred to as “effluent.” Anaerobic bacteria begin to break down the organic matter in the effluent as soon as it enters the system.

A layer of sludge settles to the bottom of the container.

4.
Scum is mostly constituted of fats, greases, and oils, among other substances.
Grease and oils float to the surface of the water.

(5) A filter stops the majority of particles from reaching the exit pipe.
The effluent is discharged into the drain field.
Effluent is allowed to leak into the surrounding gravel because of holes in the drain septic field pipe.

The garbage is completely decomposed by aerobic bacteria found in gravel and dirt.
Potable water seeps into the groundwater and aquifer system from the surface.

Septic Tank Clean Out: Don’t abuse the system

Septic systems that have been correctly planned and constructed require just occasional ‘pumping’ to remove the sludge and scum that has built up inside the tank. However, if you don’t understand how a septic tank works, you may unintentionally hurt or even destroy the system.

Drains are used to dispose of waste that decomposes slowly (or not at all). Cigarette butts, diapers, and coffee grounds are all known to cause issues. Garbage disposers, if utilized excessively, can introduce an excessive amount of solid waste into the system. Lint from synthetic fibers is emitted from washing machine lint traps. This substance is not degraded by bacteria in the tank and drain septic field. Bacteria are killed by chemicals found in the home, such as disinfecting cleansers and antibacterial soaps. The majority of systems are capable of withstanding limited usage of these goods, but the less you use them, the better. When a large amount of wastewater is produced in a short period of time, the tank is flushed away too quickly. When there is too much sludge, bacteria’s capacity to break down waste is reduced. Sludge can also overflow into the drain field if there is too much of it. Sludge or scum obstructs the flow of water via a pipe. It is possible for tree and shrub roots to obstruct and cause harm to a drain field. Compacted soil and gravel prevent wastewater from seeping into the ground and deprive germs of oxygen. Most of the time, this is caused by vehicles driving or parking on the drain field.

Get your tank pumped…

Your tank must be emptied on a regular basis by a professional. Pumping eliminates the accumulation of sludge and scum that has accumulated in the tank, which has caused the bacterial action to be slowed. If you have a large tank, it may be necessary to pump it once a year; but, depending on the size of your tank and the quantity of waste you send through the system, you may go two or three years between pumpings. Inquire with your inspector about an approximate guideline for how frequently your tank should be pumped.

…but don’t hire a pumper until you need it

Inspections and pumping should be performed on a regular basis. However, if you’re not afraid of getting your hands dirty, you may verify the sludge level yourself with a gadget known as The Sludge Judge. It ranges in price from $100 to $125 and is commonly accessible on the internet. Once you’ve verified that your tank is one-third full with sludge, you should contact a professional to come out and pump it out completely.

Install an effluent filter in your septic system

Garbage from your home accumulates into three distinct strata.

The septic filter is responsible for preventing blockage of the drain field pipes.

Septic tank filter close-up

The septic tank filter is responsible for capturing suspended particles that may otherwise block the drain field pipes. Obtain an effluent filter for your tank from your contractor and place it on the outflow pipe of your tank. (It will most likely cost between $50 and $100, plus labor.) This device, which helps to prevent sediments from entering the drain field, will need to be cleaned out on a regular basis by a contractor to maintain its effectiveness.

Solution for a clogged septic system

If your septic system becomes clogged and you find yourself having to clean the filter on a regular basis, you might be tempted to simply remove the filter altogether. Hold on to it. Solids, wastewater, and scum are separated into three levels in septic tanks, which allows them to function properly (see illustration above). Solids sink to the bottom of the container, where microbes breakdown them. The scum, which is made up of trash that is lighter than water, rises to the surface. In the drainage field, the middle layer of effluent leaves the tank and goes through an underground network of perforated pipes to the drainage field.

Keep the effluent filter in place since it is required by your state’s health law.
Waste particles might flow through the filter and clog the perforated pipes if the filter is not used.

Your filter, on the other hand, should not require cleaning every six months.
A good chance is high that you’re flushing filter-clogging things down the toilet, such as grease, fat, or food scraps.
A garbage disposal will not be able to break down food particles sufficiently to allow them to flow through the septic tank filtration system.

Plastic items, disposable diapers, paper towels, nonbiodegradable goods, and tobacco products will clog the system if they are flushed through it.
More information on removing lint from your laundry may be found here.

Get an inspection

Following a comprehensive first check performed by an expert, regular inspections will cost less than $100 each inspection for the next year. Your professional will be able to inform you how often you should get your system inspected as well as how a septic tank functions. As straightforward as a septic system appears, determining its overall condition necessitates the services of a professional. There are a plethora of contractors who would gladly pump the sludge out of your tank, but many, in my experience, are unable to explain how a septic system works or how it should be maintained.

A certification scheme for septic contractors has been established in certain states; check with your state’s Secretary of State’s office to see whether yours is one of them.

Also, a qualified inspector will be able to tell you whether or not your tank is large enough to accommodate your household’s needs, as well as the maximum amount of water that can be passed through it in a single day.

You may be able to boost the performance of your system by using a product such as RID-X to introduce bacteria into the system. As you learn more about how a septic tank works, your professional should be able to tell you whether or not your system will benefit from this treatment.

Alternatives to a new drain field

If an examination or a sewage backup indicate that your drain field is in need of replacement, the only option is to replace it completely. As a result, it’s important to talk with a contractor about other possibilities before proceeding with the project.

Pipes should be cleaned. A rotating pressure washer, used by a contractor, may be used to clean out the drain septic field pipes. The cost of “jetting” the pipes is generally around $200. Chemicals should be used to clean the system. A commercial solution (not a home-made one) that enhances the quantity of oxygen in the drain field should be discussed with your contractor before installing your new system. Septic-Scrub is a product that I suggest. A normal treatment will cost between $500 and $1,000. Make the soil more pliable. The practice of “terra-lifting,” which involves pumping high-pressure air into several spots surrounding the drain field, is authorized in some regions. Some contractors use it to shatter compacted dirt around the pipes. Depending on the circumstances, this might cost less than $1,000 or as much as $4,000 or more.

Protect your drain septic field from lint

When this device is in place, it inhibits lint from entering the system, especially synthetic fibers that bacteria are unable to digest. One of these filters, which I’ve designed and termed theSeptic Protector, was invented by me. An additional filter is included in the price of around $150 plus delivery. Learn more about how to filter out laundry lint in this article.

Don’t overload the septic system

Reduce the amount of water you use. The volume of water that flows into your tank, particularly over a short period of time, can be reduced to avoid untreated waste from being flushed into your drain field. Replace outdated toilets with low-flow ones, install low-flow showerheads, and, perhaps most importantly, wash laundry throughout the week rather than just on Saturday mornings to save water.

Meet the Expert

Septic systems, according to Jim vonMeier, are the solution to America’s water deficit because they supply cleaned water to depleted aquifers, according to vonMeier. He travels the country lobbying for septic systems, giving lectures, and giving testimony. For septic system inquiries, as well as information on the operation of the septic tank, contact him by email.

Septic Tank Installation and Replacement Cost

The typical cost in the United States ranges from $500 to $5,000. The national average cost of a septic tank installation or the cost of replacing an outdated septic system is dependent on a number of different variables.

Septic Tank Installation	Average Costs
National Minimum Cost	$500
National Maximum Cost	$5000
National Average Cost	$1500

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, one in every five residences in the United States relies on a septic system for wastewater management (EPA). In the case of septic systems, you may have a septic system for your home alone, or you may be connected to a communal system that services a small number of homes. Untreated wastewater created by a house or company is treated on site by a septic system, which is an on-site treatment system. Sewage lines convey wastewater from your shower, toilet, sinks, clothes washer, and trash disposal away from your home and into a septic tank buried in your yard.

Solids are separated from floatable debris in the septic tank, and the leftover liquid drains from the tank through a series of perforated tubes and onto a drain field or leach field after being separated in the tank.

The usage of septic systems is popular in rural regions that do not have access to a centralized municipal sewer system.

Tank capacity ranges from less than 1,000 gallons to more than 2,000 gallons, with the size of the tank determined by the quantity of water you consume on a daily basis.

Condos, apartments, residences, business spaces, and other types of structures might benefit from septic system installation or replacement services.

What’s in this cost guide?

Species of soil
Tank size and tank type
Equipment installation and maintenance
Lift station
Septic systems that are not conventional
How septic tanks function
Signs that you need to upgrade your system
How to employ a professional

Alternative septic systems

Alternative techniques are particularly effective on steep locations, highly rocky land, or poor soil. Among the options available are aerobic septic systems, mound septic systems, raised-bed septic systems, and others. The cost of a septic system installation or replacement may be greater or cheaper than the average depending on the area and kind of system. Locate the most qualified septic system consultant for your project needs. Zip code must be entered correctly.

Signs you need a new system

Anyone would not want sewage water rising up through their front yard on one of the hottest days of the summer season (or even on the coldest day of winter). Waterborne pathogens such as protozoa, bacteria (such as E. coli), and viruses may be spread through fecal matter, making wastewater not just stinking and disgusting, but also potentially deadly. It is possible for unclean wastewater to drain through the soil and pollute the water you and your friends and neighbors drink if your septic system is leaky, overwhelmed, or otherwise compromised.

Knowing what indicators to look for might help you catch an issue before it becomes a major problem.

This includes having your septic tank pumped out by a professional every three to five years.

Other indicators may indicate that it is necessary to contact a septic system specialist as soon as possible to either repair or replace the system.