How To Make A Septic Tank Out Of 300 Drum? (Solved)

  • Cut a 4 in (10 cm) hole in the first drum on the opposite side as the hole in the top. Place the hole about 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) down from the top of the drum and make sure it lines up with the hole on top of the tank. Cut the hole with a saber saw or a hole saw.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

Can you use a 55 gallon drum for a septic tank?

In areas with no zoning or building restrictions, 55-gallon drums or barrels may still be used as a temporary solution before other more permanent methods of waste containment are put in place. Dig a hole in line with the bathroom 10 feet away from the structure that needs a temporary septic tank.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.

How big of a septic tank do I need?

The larger your home, the larger the septic tank you’re going to need. For instance, a house smaller than 1,500 square feet usually requires a 750 to 1,000-gallon tank. On the other hand, a bigger home of approximately 2,500 square feet will need a bigger tank, more than the 1,000-gallon range.

What is the smallest septic tank available?

If you’re looking to install a septic system, the smallest tank size you’re likely to find is 750-gallon, which will accommodate one to two bedrooms. You can also opt for a 1,000-gallon system, which will handle two to four bedrooms.

What is a holding tank septic system?

A holding tank, also called a waste water holding tank or black (water) tank, is a container for storing sewage in vehicles equipped with toilets. The contents are emptied into a dump station, which discharges the raw sewage into a sewage treatment system.

What size septic tank do I need for a tiny house?

Tiny homes typically require a 500 to 1,000-gallon septic tank. Though, it’s not always possible to implement a tank of this size. In some states, for example, the minimum tank size is 1,000 gallons. There may be exceptions to this rule if your home is on wheels.

How big of a septic tank do I need for an RV?

In a small RV, you can expect at least 15 gallons for the black water and a gray water tank of 30 gallons. A larger RV might easily have tanks as large as 50 gallons each.

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.

When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.

Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.

Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.

It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.

Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks

  1. 1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them more manageable. 2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. Make sure the flanges are securely fastened to the tanks so they don’t shift or move after you’ve placed them. 3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw.

Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground

  1. 1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.
  • Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet
  1. The majority of heavy machinery supply stores will lend out excavators for excavating jobs. Make use of the internet to look for equipment rentals.

Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes

  1. Excavators for excavating may normally be rented from a heavy machinery supply business. Look for equipment rentals on the internet.

Community Q A

Create a new question

  • Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more
  • Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity
  • Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
  • If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And might I use antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.

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  • The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
  • Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process
  • The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
  • The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
  • It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary tools to dig the trench (or be ready to put in a lot of effort).

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  • This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.
See also:  How To Find Septic Tank Field Lines? (Solved)

Things You’ll Need

  • 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
  • 80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
  • 9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
  • 10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
  • 3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
  • 2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
  • Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
  • And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
  • Duct tape
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
  • 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

About This Article

wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. A total of 2,323,265 people have looked at this article. Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.

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  • Robert Clark is a writer who lives in the United Kingdom. The 18th of November in the year 2021 “Your strategy is simple to learn and use since it has been well described. Furthermore, it is advantageous to those who work part-time or on weekends.” more

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Home-Diy Temporary septic tanks were formerly constructed from whatever materials were available at the time, such as 55-gallon drums or barrels, according to legend.

Despite the fact that these drums or barrels had a limited capacity, they performed well and provided a quick solution to the problem of holding untreated sewage.

  • The following items are required: jigsaw
  • 1-by-10-foot-long 3-inch-diameter black PVC pipe
  • 1-by-10-foot-long leach-line pipe
  • 55-gallon plastic drum or barrel with lid
  • Cinders.


Invest in a natural septic digester, which can be purchased at any ranch supply store, to supplement your temporary septic tank.


Add a natural septic digester to your temporary septic tank, which can be purchased at any ranch supply store.

  1. Dig a hole 10 feet away from the structure that requires a temporary septic tank, in line with the bathroom and 10 feet away from the toilet. For optimal gravity flow while flushing the toilet and to avoid sewage backlog, dig down at least 8 feet. To keep the building from being damaged, dig a ditch 2 feet below right in front of the hole. The trench should be a minimum of 10 feet long. This will be the leach line for your system. Take the jigsaw and cut a hole in the side of the plastic barrel 4 inches below the top to accommodate the 10-foot-long leach line, which is made of 3-inch-diameter PVC black pipe. Make certain that the hole is large enough to accommodate the pipe. Drop in the 55-gallon plastic barrel and insert the black PVC leach-line pipe into the hole you just dug. Cover the leach line with a coating of black plastic and a thick covering of cinders to prevent it from leaking. The soil you took from the leach line when excavating it should be used to re-fill it. Attach the other 10-foot length of solid PVC pipe to the structure and insert it into the bung hole at the top of the drum or barrel, if applicable. Place a black plastic sheet over the whole drum or barrel lid and backfill with earth until it reaches ground level.

How Does a Septic Tank Work?

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family You may save a lot of money if you understand how a sewage treatment system works—and what can go wrong—so that you can handle your own septic system maintenance.

How does a septic tank work?

Pumping the tank on a regular basis eliminates sludge and scum, which helps to keep a septic system in good working order. It is possible for a well-designed and well built septic system to last for decades, or it might collapse in a matter of years. It is entirely up to you as long as you can answer the question of how do septic tanks function. Healthy septic systems are very inexpensive to maintain, but digging up and replacing a septic system that has completely collapsed may easily cost tens of thousands in labor and material costs.

It’s critical to understand how a septic tank works in order to maintain one.

Let’s take a look below ground and observe what happens in a properly operating septic system, shall we?

Understand that a septic system is a cafeteria for bacteria

Bacteria are responsible for the proper operation of a septic system. They decompose garbage, resulting in water that is clean enough to safely trickle down into the earth’s surface. The entire system is set up to keep bacteria healthy and busy at all times. Some of them reside in the tank, but the majority of them are found in the drain field. 1. The septic tank is the final destination for all waste. 2. The majority of the tank is filled with watery waste, referred to as “effluent.” Anaerobic bacteria begin to break down the organic matter in the effluent as soon as it enters the system.

  1. A layer of sludge settles to the bottom of the container.
  2. 4.
  3. Scum is mostly constituted of fats, greases, and oils, among other substances.
  4. Grease and oils float to the surface of the water.
  5. (5) A filter stops the majority of particles from reaching the exit pipe.
  6. The effluent is discharged into the drain field.
  7. Effluent is allowed to leak into the surrounding gravel because of holes in the drain septic field pipe.

When gravel is used to surround pipes, water can run into the soil and oxygen can reach germs. The garbage is completely decomposed by aerobic bacteria found in gravel and dirt. 9. Potable water seeps into the groundwater and aquifer system from the surface.

Septic Tank Clean Out: Don’t abuse the system

Septic systems that have been correctly planned and constructed require just occasional ‘pumping’ to remove the sludge and scum that has built up inside the tank. However, if you don’t understand how a septic tank works, you may unintentionally hurt or even destroy the system.

  • Drains are used to dispose of waste that decomposes slowly (or not at all). Cigarette butts, diapers, and coffee grounds are all known to cause issues. Garbage disposers, if utilized excessively, can introduce an excessive amount of solid waste into the system. Lint from synthetic fibers is emitted from washing machine lint traps. This substance is not degraded by bacteria in the tank and drain septic field. Bacteria are killed by chemicals found in the home, such as disinfecting cleansers and antibacterial soaps. The majority of systems are capable of withstanding limited usage of these goods, but the less you use them, the better. When a large amount of wastewater is produced in a short period of time, the tank is flushed away too quickly. When there is too much sludge, bacteria’s capacity to break down waste is reduced. Sludge can also overflow into the drain field if there is too much of it. Sludge or scum obstructs the flow of water via a pipe. It is possible for tree and shrub roots to obstruct and cause harm to a drain field. Compacted soil and gravel prevent wastewater from seeping into the ground and deprive germs of oxygen. Most of the time, this is caused by vehicles driving or parking on the drain field.

Get your tank pumped…

Your tank must be emptied on a regular basis by a professional. Pumping eliminates the accumulation of sludge and scum that has accumulated in the tank, which has caused the bacterial action to be slowed. If you have a large tank, it may be necessary to pump it once a year; but, depending on the size of your tank and the quantity of waste you send through the system, you may go two or three years between pumpings. Inquire with your inspector about an approximate guideline for how frequently your tank should be pumped.

…but don’t hire a pumper until you need it

It is essential that you have a professional pump out your tank at least once a month. In addition to removing sludge and scum, pumping helps to keep the tank’s bacterial activity running at its optimal level. Depending on the size of your tank and the quantity of waste you send through the system, you may need to pump your tank once a year, but it is possible to go two or three years without pumpings. For an approximate advice on how often to have your tank pumped, consult your inspector.

Install an effluent filter in your septic system

Garbage from your home accumulates into three distinct strata. The septic filter is responsible for preventing blockage of the drain field pipes.

Septic tank filter close-up

The septic tank filter is responsible for capturing suspended particles that may otherwise block the drain field pipes. Obtain an effluent filter for your tank from your contractor and place it on the outflow pipe of your tank. (It will most likely cost between $50 and $100, plus labor.) This device, which helps to prevent sediments from entering the drain field, will need to be cleaned out on a regular basis by a contractor to maintain its effectiveness.

Solution for a clogged septic system

If your septic system becomes clogged and you find yourself having to clean the filter on a regular basis, you might be tempted to simply remove the filter altogether. Hold on to it. Solids, wastewater, and scum are separated into three levels in septic tanks, which allows them to function properly (see illustration above). Solids sink to the bottom of the container, where microbes breakdown them. The scum, which is made up of trash that is lighter than water, rises to the surface. In the drainage field, the middle layer of effluent leaves the tank and goes through an underground network of perforated pipes to the drainage field.

  1. Keep the effluent filter in place since it is required by your state’s health law.
  2. Waste particles might flow through the filter and clog the perforated pipes if the filter is not used.
  3. Your filter, on the other hand, should not require cleaning every six months.
  4. A good chance is high that you’re flushing filter-clogging things down the toilet, such as grease, fat, or food scraps.
  5. A garbage disposal will not be able to break down food particles sufficiently to allow them to flow through the septic tank filtration system.
  6. Plastic items, disposable diapers, paper towels, nonbiodegradable goods, and tobacco products will clog the system if they are flushed through it.

For additional information on what should and should not be flushed down the toilet, contact your local health authority. More information on removing lint from your laundry may be found here.

Get an inspection

Following a comprehensive first check performed by an expert, regular inspections will cost less than $100 each inspection for the next year. Your professional will be able to inform you how often you should get your system inspected as well as how a septic tank functions. As straightforward as a septic system appears, determining its overall condition necessitates the services of a professional. There are a plethora of contractors who would gladly pump the sludge out of your tank, but many, in my experience, are unable to explain how a septic system works or how it should be maintained.

A certification scheme for septic contractors has been established in certain states; check with your state’s Secretary of State’s office to see whether yours is one of them.

Also, a qualified inspector will be able to tell you whether or not your tank is large enough to accommodate your household’s needs, as well as the maximum amount of water that can be passed through it in a single day.

As you learn more about how a septic tank works, your professional should be able to tell you whether or not your system will benefit from this treatment.

Alternatives to a new drain field

If an examination or a sewage backup indicate that your drain field is in need of replacement, the only option is to replace it completely. As a result, it’s important to talk with a contractor about other possibilities before proceeding with the project.

  • Pipes should be cleaned. A rotating pressure washer, used by a contractor, may be used to clean out the drain septic field pipes. The cost of “jetting” the pipes is generally around $200. Chemicals should be used to clean the system. A commercial solution (not a home-made one) that enhances the quantity of oxygen in the drain field should be discussed with your contractor before installing your new system. Septic-Scrub is a product that I suggest. A normal treatment will cost between $500 and $1,000. Make the soil more pliable. The practice of “terra-lifting,” which involves pumping high-pressure air into several spots surrounding the drain field, is authorized in some regions. Some contractors use it to shatter compacted dirt around the pipes. Depending on the circumstances, this might cost less than $1,000 or as much as $4,000 or more.
See also:  How Many Sprinklers Can A New Septic Tank Support?

Protect your drain septic field from lint

When this device is in place, it inhibits lint from entering the system, especially synthetic fibers that bacteria are unable to digest. One of these filters, which I’ve designed and termed theSeptic Protector, was invented by me. An additional filter is included in the price of around $150 plus delivery. Learn more about how to filter out laundry lint in this article.

Don’t overload the septic system

Reduce the amount of water you use. The volume of water that flows into your tank, particularly over a short period of time, can be reduced to avoid untreated waste from being flushed into your drain field. Replace outdated toilets with low-flow ones, install low-flow showerheads, and, perhaps most importantly, wash laundry throughout the week rather than just on Saturday mornings to save water.

Meet the Expert

Septic systems, according to Jim vonMeier, are the solution to America’s water deficit because they supply cleaned water to depleted aquifers, according to vonMeier. He travels the country lobbying for septic systems, giving lectures, and giving testimony. For septic system inquiries, as well as information on the operation of the septic tank, contact him by email.

DIY septic tank advise – Small Cabin Forum

Author Message
xinullMember Posted: 20 Aug 2019 23:24ReplyI’m building a septic tank based on this design instead of using 2x 55 gallon barrels, my first barrel will be a 275 gallon IBC tote and the second barrel will be 55 gallon.This is just a small system for my wife and I and usage on ever other week-ends, and almost no usage in the winter (as the land is not easily accessible in the winter).I first need to fill these 27555 gallon containers with water.first question, can i use river water to fill them up? i dont know much about septic tanks, and i’m not sure if the possibility of insects or parasites in the water might be detrimental to my septic tanksecond question is about the design. Should the entry point of the first tank have the pipe go down to the middle of the material in the tank, OR should it stay above the material and just fall in?Here’s a picture to show what i meanThanks
BrettnyMember Posted: 21 Aug 2019 07:24ReplyFirst you need to find out if its legal to do this in your area.After that an IBC tote dosnt lend very well to being burried.They are very thin material.Have you priced out a small septic tank?There usualy about $1 per gallon, they make 200gal ones.It would be a shame to dig that big hole for the IBC tote and have things colapse in.Rain water is fine.The right pic would be ever you want your outlet of the big tank sucking from the middle of the tank.Having a hole near the top and a elbow down will be good.The second barrel is just acting as a drywell?If so theres other ways to accomplish this but a 55gal drum will work.Things you need to cosider is do you have easy acess to gravel or a machine to dig?This will be alot of digging by hand.
xinullMember Posted: 21 Aug 2019 20:47ReplyThere’s quite a few people in the area who’ve done their septic tank using an IBC tote. I know they have, i just dont know them personally, just word to mouth kinda of thing.But i do know that as long as you fill the IBC tote before burring it, you’ll be fine and it wont collapse;)The picture was just a quick drawing, I only had a few minutes to write the post last night. i had already decided to have an elbow with a pipe going down and a tee (to prevent any solids from accidently floating up in the pipe) around the mid-point of the material as you suggested. I was just in a hurry to draw the picture and forgot to put it inThe second barrel should only hold liquids, but if any solids still exists they can continue to decompose in that one until they are released through 2x 20 feet drain pipes in a leach field of gravelI have the machine to dig right now, i rented an excavator, couldn’t get it delivered directly because of the bad trail and mud holes, obviously. But i had to drive almost half a day just to get it to my land.For the gravel, i’ll have to haul it with a small trailer during the dry season, when the mud holes are not too bad.that’s right now! It will take some time, but im in no rush. I ran out of money to start the camp this year, so all i’m doing is preparing the road and since i got the excavator, i’m also preparing the septic tank.Thanks for the reply
toyota_mdt_techMember Posted: 21 Aug 2019 21:40ReplyBoth inlet and outlet need to go below the full level. You will need a baffle, a “T” works and allows you to access it from topside for cleanout. You have sludge and crust, sludge forms at the bottom, crust at the top.You dont want anything getting into the drain field. Why fill with water, let it fil naturally.
ICCMember Posted: 21 Aug 2019 21:45ReplyQuoting: toyota_mdt_techWhy fill with water, let it fil naturally.Because those totes are not made to take pressure from the outside (dirt piled on) to the inside. Water in the tank will help resist collapse.
xinullMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 08:37ReplyQuoting: toyota_mdt_techBoth inlet and outlet need to go below the full levelI felt like having both my inlet and outlet go down to the middle of the material was better as you recommended. But i wasn’t 100% sure about the inlet one. I felt like if the inlet ended in the middle, then it would avoid the splash of material going in, and avoid the possibility of having top material, or crust as you call it, to being pushed down and possibly make it’s way to the second container. But i also wondered if the material going in might not always make it’s way entirely out of the inlet pipe, and material would just accumulate in the pipe and eventually make a blockage.I guess i’m also looking for confirmation that the concept of having the inlet end in the middle is technically sound.Toyota_mdt_tech, have you seen this design in real life?As for the baffle, was already part of my design tooI’m putting one on each tank, just in case i need to access either to cleanup anything.I could collect rain water, but that would take forever as i dont have a roof to act as collector (no cabin yet). That’s why i was also asking about using river water, if that wasn’t gonna cause issues with the septic. There is a shallow river that runs nearby, and would allow for easier and quicker transport. I just dont know what effect having whatever parasite or insects from the river in my septic is going to do to the system.Quoting: ICCBecause those totes are not made to take pressure from the outside (dirt piled on) to the inside.- exactly
creekyMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 09:32ReplyI would think those insects and bacteria from the river should help. Kinda like the “dead cat” starter kit some folks use for older not used in awhile septic systems.
BrettnyMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 10:26ReplyYou dont want the inlet to be in the “meterial”the fats and floating solids can stay in that vertical pupe filled with liquid making a clog.Put your inlet higher than your outlet so you will always have flow in.I have an IBC tote thats alreaty caving in the top just from weight and rain.Since by the sound of it you really only have once chance at putting this tank in get a real one.I would go off hear say on 3rd party info.A 300gal tank thats designed for your application is $400 online.A local septic supplier should beable to get the same tank and save you the shipping.Since an IBC tote is roughly $130 your really not saving much.Add in the cost to do the job again and you have saved next to nothing.
BrettnyMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 10:28ReplyI should note that i own my machine so machine time is the cost of diesel.i would never burry a IBC tote for anything.You are prob better off making your own concrete tank than burrying one of these.
FishHogMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 13:28ReplyIf your going to bury a tote under any amount of soil cover the top with wood to stop the soil from pushing down on the plastic. Even that isn’t a long term plan. I’d follow the advice of everyone else and avoid the ibc. You will be rebuilding your system way too soon. It will work but it won’t work for as long as you want it too.Build it right the first time and you will avoid a lot of headaches
mj1angierMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 13:48ReplyHere is what I did back in the 80’s at an old farm house I got to stay in for free. Last I checked(3 years ago) a family of 3 were still using it. Mine did not look as nice as this one, lol
BrettnyMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 16:17ReplyThats where i was going with the DIY concrete tank.That one they burried looks like an above ground tank.the one that caved in.I havnt priced out bags of concrete and cinder blocks but thats prety easy to do your self.
AtlincabinMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 18:35ReplyAnother option to avoid collapse would be to clad the tank with pressure-treated (or plain) wood.There are a lot of old septic systems around here that were built with just plain green wood and are still fine tens of years later.But I’m up north where rot doesn’t happen quite as fast as other places.My vote would be to get a decent tank to start with, but cladding the IBC thing might be an option if it is difficult to get a concrete tank in to your location.
necklessMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 22:23Replywhat happens when u pump them outthose tanks willfail
necklessMember Posted: 22 Aug 2019 22:24Replywhat happens when u pump them outthose tanks willfailthe plastic totes
sparky30_06Member Posted: 23 Aug 2019 06:59ReplyDon’t use the IBC tote tanks, The small plastic ball septic tanks are cheap and will save you lots of head aches down the road.if you are still wanting to do something else use 3 or 4 plastic 5 gallon drums in series.They will hold up better under ground.
xinullMember Posted: 23 Aug 2019 23:19ReplyThanks for all the great advice. It sure made me think about lots over the past few days.Unfortunately i already purchase the IBC tote and all the parts weeks ago. My questions were just about how to refine my plan.I did speak to a friend of mine today who has a setup with an IBC tote and he explained the good and bad about it. He also mentioned that he personally knows a handful of people running the same setup for over 8 years with no issues.I guess i’ll have to make a hard decision in the next few days. But if i do go with this setup, i’ll definitly board the IBC tote around and on top with pressure treated wood to help reinforce the structure for when emptying it.thanks everyone
Old and SlowMember Posted: 30 Aug 2019 13:20 – Edited by: Old and SlowReplyCheck out how to plumb a septic tank on line. Simply, the inlet pipe terminates in a tee with a short downward extension to prevent solids or sludge from entering the pipe. It should be on the opposite side from the outlet which should be lower and terminate in a tee. My only experience is in the US where a 750 gallon tank is the minimum for a one bedroom. Field line lengths are determined by number of bedrooms and soil perk test.The local authority has the final say as to legality and may be able to cause many problems if they find an illegal system. Fifty five gallon drums were outlawed years ago in the southeast. Note the article says the system is not legal if found in use fines can result.
FishHogMember Posted: 30 Aug 2019 15:54ReplyQuoting: xinullover 8 years with no issuesso do you want to dig it up and redo it in 8ish years to save the cost of an IBC that you can use for something else?Don’t forget you will be 8 years older.These days I’m planning everything I do to be less maintenance when I’m older.Things are already getting harder so I don’t want my poor planning or cost cutting to stop me from enjoying my place 10 or 20 years from now.
Sprinkler GuyMember Posted: 20 Sep 2019 21:09ReplyI am a little late to the party but this is what I installed a few weeks ago.I thought about the IBC tote but didn’t want to “rig” it.
BrettnyMember Posted: 21 Sep 2019 10:12ReplyNice.How much did the tank cost?300gal?
Sprinkler GuyMember Posted: 21 Sep 2019 10:19ReplyIt cost about $550.Yes it is 300 gallons
elighMember Posted: 22 Sep 2019 08:49 – Edited by: elighReplyQuoting: Sprinkler GuyI am a little late to the party but this is what I installed a few weeks ago.HiWhat happens when this thing gets full? Do you have someone come with a pump truck and vacuum it out?Or does it naturally take care of itself via biology and microorganisms?Oh and how deep did you bury this? From the top lid to the surface how deep? Or does that Green lid sit flush with the ground so it can be unscrewed and vacuumed out easily?
mj1angierMember Posted: 22 Sep 2019 09:04ReplyLooks like Home Depot has one for around $400
ICCMember Posted: 22 Sep 2019 09:27ReplyQuoting: elighWhat happens when this thing gets full?If it is being used as a septic tank there will also be some pipes in a leach field. Google how s septic tankworks.If only a storage tank it would be pumped out. There are some lakeshore communities where everyone has a storage tank instead of septic because of the water level.How deep depends on the weather; how cold the winter.
Sprinkler GuyMember Posted: 22 Sep 2019 18:40ReplyIt will get pumped when full but I would suspect with only weekend use once a month it will take a long tine to fill.Solids do break down.I buried it just enough to cover the tank and I was lucky to get it that deep due to the shale.It won’t see much winter use anyway as the water line isn’t buried below the frost line.

Septic System for a Garage

This is something I am somewhat familiar with. I share a home with the former Deputy Director of the North Carolina State Department of Health and Human Services. Drains in your floor are not permitted in North Carolina; doing so places you in a different category. I’d phone and ask the local County Sanitarian about it without giving your name or identifying yourself. I had planned to put some in a horse wash pit here at the barn and pipe it to a ditch, but I was informed I couldn’t since it was against the rules.

  1. It has something to do with the classification of what is coming out of the pipe.
  2. Unless your shop is located within walking distance of your home’s septic system, you’ll most likely need to construct a 1100-1200 gallon two-stage septic tank with a grinder pump and a pump to connect it to the current septic system.
  3. The rationale for the huge tank is that, in the case of a long-term power loss, you may have enough capacity to avoid an overflow until power is restored, which is an advantage.
  4. If it’s too far away and you use it too frequently, it will quickly get overloaded.
  5. I thought that sounded ridiculous until we lost the shop.
  6. Once a week, I’d bring in a generator to power the site so that I could pump out the septic system.
  7. A thin coating of cement is applied over the whole surface until the CO is issued, which is how most people do it in this area.

The situation in your store is the same as in a commercial store with a floor drain; if a load of antifreeze or oil was thrown on the floor in a commercial store with a floor drain, it would go directly down the drain.

Linda has taught me a lot about public health, which I appreciate.

All it takes is for you to annoy someone enough for them to turn you in.

The next year, she retired from the state and proceeded to work as the Health Director for local government.

It’s the simple things that may mean a lot when you don’t give them much thought.

When putting ice in the cup, you’re supposed to use a scoop or an ice dispenser.

It does happen, and it has been linked to a person who has hepatitis placing the ice in the glasses incorrectly.

In fact, it was only after meeting Linda that I realized I’d been overcooking the turkey and pig on the barbecue using a meat thermometer all this time! However, the cuisine has improved, which is a positive development.

Two 55-gal. drum septic system

When it comes to the suggested method for disposing of black water from an RV, I have a number of questions and concerns. 1. In most recreational vehicles and travel trailers, the black water tank is located right below the toilet. Because the waste drips directly into the tank, just a small amount of water is required while flushing. The owner is thus strongly advised to at least partially fill the black water tank before disposing of it, according to industry standard practice. The reason for this is that the liquids that have collected in the tank will aid in the breakdown of the particles into a slurry over time and as a result of the sloshing about in the tank.

  • There are two alternatives available to the OP when it comes to emptying his black water tank.
  • Option A.
  • As a result of this shock load, the first barrel’s capacity to allow for settling of the solids will be severely limited.
  • Much of the solids (slurry) will most likely short-circuit from the input to the outflow and enter the second barrel, which is a highly likely outcome.
  • Solids in a seepage are strictly prohibited.
  • If the RV’s black water tank valve is left open, just the liquids will drain out, as opposed to the solids.
  • Solids will accumulate in the black water tank over time.


If this is not done, gases and aromas from the barrel septic tanks will be allowed to enter the RV.

As previously stated, the distance between the inlet and outflow pipes of the two stage barrel septic tanks is quite short.

It is possible that improved performance may be obtained if the input pipe was extended into the barrel for around 12 inches “or something along those lines.


It would then be possible to dig out the chambers and re-use them if the bed were to get clogged at some point in the future.

The barrel septic tanks are, in my opinion, absolutely insufficient, even with the improvements that I have recommended above.

The wastewater water entering a tank should occur below the waterline to prevent splashing, and the effluent exiting the tank should likewise occur below the waterline to ensure that floating fats, oils, TP, and scum do not reach the seepage beds during the treatment process.

To use the suggested system as a grey water only system, I would suggest that you follow my advice.

Surge loading your RV’s black water tank into a septic tank, such as this one, is possible.

Regardless of whether you use a seepage bed or seepage chambers (as described below), the size of the bed or the number of chambers should be determined by the soil texture. When working with chambers, you do not need to utilize gravel.

Instant Power Professional 8868 $1,000.31 Septic System Treatment, 55 gal., Odorless

  • Cleaner Chemical Product Grouping: Drain Cleaners and Maintainers
  • Item – Drains and Maintainers: Septic Tank Treatment
  • Cleaner Container Size: 55 gal
  • Cleaner Chemical Product Grouping: Drain Cleaners and Maintainers
  • Drum is the container type for cleaners. There is no fragrance in this product. Ready to Use is the recommended dilution. Cleaner in liquid form
  • Intended for use on septic systems
  • Contains proprietary ingredients. It is a septic system treatment with a 55-gallon capacity and a zero percent VOC content. There is just one case of this item. Clear Blue is the color of choice. There is no primary chemical in this formula. Barrel is the container type. United States of America is the country of origin (subject to change).

Drain cleaners and maintainers, septic tank treatment, hard nonporous surfaces, and other related products and services Cleaning container capacity 55 gal, cleaning container type drum, cleaning container size Unscented fragrance, recommended dilution ready to use, unscented fragrance The cleaner is in the liquid form, and the chemical series is None. The primary chemical is None, and the color is clear blue. The cleaner contains no VOCs, and the case quantity is one. The item is Septic System Treatment.


Hard nonporous surfaces such as concrete, poured concrete, and masonry, as well as drain cleaners and maintainers Cleaning container capacity 55 gal, cleaning container shape drum, cleaning container type drum Unscented, recommended dilution ready to use, no fragrance added. The cleaner is in the liquid form, and the chemical series is not specified. The primary chemical is none, and the color is clear blue. The cleaner contains no VOCs and is proprietary.

41820 $1,900.00 1,000 GALLON 403 lbs 102″L x 60″W x 63″H 2
41821 $2,700.00 1,250 GALLON 467 lbs 116″L x 55″W x 70″H 2
41822 $2,475.00 1,500 GALLON 589 lbs 135″L x 55″W x 70″H 2
62397 $100.00 Manhole Extension 15″H x 20″D
62396 $115.00 Manhole Extension 24″H x 20″D

Drain cleaners and maintainers, septic tank treatment, hard nonporous surfaces, and other related products and services. Cleaning container size 55 gal, cleaning container type drum, cleaning container size Unscented fragrance, recommended dilution ready to use, The cleaner is in the liquid form, and the chemical series is None. The primary chemical is None, and the color is clear blue. The cleaner contains no VOCs, and the case quantity is 1. The item is Septic System Treatment.

43522 $950.00 500 GALLON 97″ x 48″ x 42″ 20″ 1
44510 $1,695.00 750 GALLON 92″ x 60″ x 51″ 20″ 2
44482 $1,890.00 1,000 GALLON 127″ x 60″ x 51″ 20″ 2
44483 $1,975.00 1,250 GALLON 157″ x 60″ x 51 “ 20″ 2
44484 $2,755.00 1,500 GALLON 157″ x 69″ x 51″ 20″ 2
63833 $125.00 Manhole Extension 15″ TALL x 20″ D
63834 $135.00 Manhole Extension 24″ TALL x 20″ D

Drain cleaners and maintainers, septic tank treatment, hard nonporous surfaces, and other related services. Cleaner Container Capacity 55 gal, Cleaner Container Type Drum, Fragrance-free, recommended dilution ready to use, Cleaner Form Liquid, Chemical Series No Series, Primary Chemical None, Color Clear Blue, VOC Content 0 Percent, Contains Proprietary, Case Quantity 1, Item Septic System Treatment

63833 $80.00 15″TALL x 20″D
63834 $90.00 24″TALL x 20″D


AST-0300-1R $550.00 300 Gallon Pump Tank 134 lbs 54″ x 56″ 1
AST-0500-1R $695.00 500 Gallon Pump Tank 197 lbs 63″ x 74″ 1
AST19212 $110.00 35 lbs Manhole Extension32.5″ x 16″

To see the PDF drawing, please choose the appropriate part number from the list below. TABLES SHOULD BE SCROLLED THROUGH BY SWIPING LEFT IF VIEWING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

AST-0750-1R $915.00 259 lbs 60 x 70 x 60 1
AST-1000-2P $1,820.00 448 lbs 60 x 101 x 60 2
AST19212 $110.00 35 lbs Manhole Extension32.5″ x 16″


AST19212 $65.00 35 lbs 16″ Access Extension – Black 32.5 x 16


LP0300-HT $635.00 White 300 Gallon Holding Tank 132 56 x 95 x 16 6″ 3″ 1


44079 $4,970.00 2,500 GALLON 20″ 159″L x 99″W x 51″H
44390 $7,075.00 3,525 GALLON 20″ 211″L x 102″W x 51″H
44876 $10,425.00 5,025 GALLON 20″ 211″L x 102″W x 73″H
63833 $125.00 Manhole Extension 20″D x 15″ TALL
63834 $135.00 Manhole Extension 20″D x 24″ TALL


63833 $80.00 15″TALL x 20″D
63834 $90.00 24″TALL x 20″D



GBF0500 $900.00 500 72″ Diameter 55″ 2


GBF1250 $1,500.00 1,250 137″ 72″ 60″ 54″ 49″
*1250 Gallon Septic Tank is listed with IAPMO “A” = Measurement from the bottom of the inlet pipe to bottom of tank “B” = Measurement from the bottom of the inlet pipe to the bottom of the tank. Inlet and outlet pipes = 4″ SDR-35 P.V.C.




GBF2000 $3,235.00 2,000 144″ 84″ 84″ 2



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