What Is Septic Tank Internal Backfill? (TOP 5 Tips)

What is the proper way to backfill a septic tank?

• After a septic tank is set, it must be appropriately backfilled. All tanks should be backfilled with successive tamped “lifts” or depth increments of uniform gradation.

What is backfilling a septic tank?

After a septic tank is set, it must be appropriately backfilled. Backfill with granular material to at least the midseam of the tank to be sure that the settling is limited. Flowable fill or native soil free of deleterious material may be used above the midseam.

How do you backfill a septic tank?

Backfill evenly all around tank using a sand / gravel mixture. b. Mound soil over septic tank in order to drain away from tank and allow for settling soil. 6” of native soil may be used for mounding.

Do you put gravel under a septic tank?

For yellow and black septic tanks, the sand/gravel mixture is required and the tanks must be filled with water during the backfilling process. BRUISER tanks and cistern tanks should be filled one-fourth full after installation.

What is septic fill?

Septic drain fields, also called leach fields or leach drains, are subsurface wastewater disposal facilities used to remove contaminants and impurities from the liquid that emerges after anaerobic digestion in a septic tank. A septic drain field, a septic tank, and associated piping compose a septic system.

What goes under septic tank?

The septic tank is a buried, water-tight container usually made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. Its job is to hold the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle down to the bottom forming sludge, while the oil and grease floats to the top as scum.

How much soil should be on top of a septic tank?

the depth of soil backfill over the septic tank lid or septic tank riser lid, ranging from 0″ (which means you should see it) to just a few inches (which means grass may be dead in this area) to 6-12″ or even more.

Is sand good for leach field?

Septic sand is used as an effective filtration system in modern septic systems and sewage mounds. It is produced from some of the highest quality sand & gravel, which is washed and finely screened.

What size gravel do you use for a leach field?

The best size for drain field rock is between ¼ inch to 2 and ½ inch rock. Gravel is the ideal choice for drain fields due to its ability to withstand large amounts to weight without being crushed allowing it to support the weight of the septic tank and the rest of the septic system’s weight.

What is the best stone for a leach field?

Gravel that is too small causes the tank to fill up with water and can cause a backup in the house, while oversized gravel allows water to flood the soil around the tank and your yard. Pieces of clean, washed rock broken into pieces about one and half inches in diameter work best, according to the Eco-Nomic website.

How long is typical leach line?

Cross-section of a leach line. A standard leach line is considered to be three (3) feet wide and three (3) feet deep with a length as required. A non-standard leach line is wider, narrower, and/or deeper than three (3) feet with a length as required.

How far is the distribution box from septic tank?

The D-box is normally not very deep, often between 6″ and two feet to the top of the box. You may also see a pattern of parallel depressions, typically about 5 feet apart, that mark the individual drainfield leach lines. The D-box will at or near end of the drainfield area that is closest to the septic tank.

Proper Backfill for Septic Tanks

Receive articles, stories, and videos about septic tanks delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Septic Tanks and More Receive Notifications After a septic tank has been installed, it must be backfilled in the proper manner. Backfilling all tanks with successively tamped “lifts” or depth increments of consistent gradation should be the standard procedure. The installer should ensure that the backfill material is devoid of clods, big boulders, frozen stuff, and debris, all of which can cause voids in the backfill material, which may enable the foundation to settle over time.

Each layer should be homogeneous in thickness, no more than 24 inches thick, and of roughly identical heights around the perimeter of the tank, with the exception of the top layer.

If the material being used is compactable, it should be compacted in order to prevent the earth surrounding the tank from sinking.

Backfill the tank with granular material until it reaches at least the midseam of the tank to ensure that settling is kept to a minimum.

• Fill around a septic tank that has been compacted All pipe penetrations through all tanks must remain waterproof after the tanks have been refilled with water.
• In order to provide a stable foundation for the pipe, the backfilled earth should be tapped.
• Pipe joints should be laid atop native soil rather than in the excavation to avoid the risk of their settling in the future.
• It is possible to sleeve pipes that may run over the top of the tank or through excavated portions (such as electrical conduit and/or return lines) to give additional support.

It is possible that the manufacturer of a nonconcrete tank will recommend or require that the tank be simultaneously filled with water to just above the backfill level in order to avoid uneven or excessive pressure on the tank walls during the installation process and to reduce the risk of the tank shifting position during installation.

It may be required to use a tamping tool to ensure that backfill makes adequate contact with and between tank ribs, but care must be given to prevent harming the tank during the process.

She has a master’s degree in civil engineering and a doctorate in environmental engineering.

Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.

Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation. Heger will respond as soon as possible.

Septic Tank Installation Best Practices

Dennis Hallahan, P.E., posted a message on For a high-quality septic tank installation, proper excavation and bedding techniques must be followed closely. The optimal methods for establishing a septic tank are outlined in this section of the guide.

Excavation:

Before installing the tank, make sure that the site has been adequately dug and that the base has been leveled. The length and breadth of the excavation should be sufficient to allow for appropriate compaction and backfilling, as well as, most significantly, to offer a safe working environment for the construction team. Prior to establishing the tank, the heel of the bucket can be used to compress the excavation bottom before the tank is set.

Setting the Septic Tank:

The septic tank should be lowered into the hole with care and precision. Ensure that the tank is level in both directions and that it is level in both directions as needed.

Backfill and Compaction:

Septic tanks should be placed in excavations with care and attention to detail. Ensure that the tank is level in both directions and that it is level in both directions if necessary.

Cover:

Following correct backfill and compacting of the septic tank, topsoil should be placed up to the final grade and positive drainage should be provided away from the septic tank. In addition, the land should be seeded to reduce erosion and channel surface water away from the site. For further information on septic tank installation, please refer to our video collection or the Infiltrator IM-Series Septic Tank General Installation Instructions in our Online Resource Center, both of which are available for free.

Consult the local health department or permitting authorities if you are unclear about what is required for a given location.

About the Author: Dennis Hallahan, P.E.Technical Director

Founder and Technical Director of Infiltrator Water Technologies, Dennis F. Hallahan, P.E, is a professional engineer. With over twenty-eight years of expertise in the design and installation of on-site wastewater treatment systems, Dennis is well-qualified to lead this team. On-site wastewater treatment systems are the subject of several articles he has written for industry periodicals, and he has given several talks around the country on the science and basics of on-site wastewater treatment systems.

Besides developing system size charts for national and international approvals, the department also aids clients and field representatives in the development, implementation, and evaluation of big, dispersed systems.

Dennis holds a professional engineer license in the state of Connecticut.

Aside from that, Dennis is the holder of various patents for on-site wastewater products.

If you have any concerns concerning this blog article, please do not hesitate to contact us. Septic Tank Installation is a term that is used to describe the installation of a septic tank.

Septic Tank Installation Guidelines

Each and every tank built by Glacier Precast Concrete has through a thorough inspection and testing process at the factory. It is vital that each tank is installed correctly in order for it to work effectively and remain watertight. Correct installation techniques may prevent many of the issues that arise in the functioning of tanks, such as tanks leaking (either water flowing into or out of them) and system failure before they have a chance to occur. Improper installation procedures can cause significant damage to the tank, as well as serious physical injury to those working on it.

It should also be beneficial to designers, building inspectors, and homeowners in general.

SITE CONDITIONS

PLAN YOUR NEXT PROJECT. To properly prepare the sub-bed elevation and allow the tank to properly receive the sewer pipe that is coming from the home or building, you will need to know the invert elevation (which is the measurement from underside of the tank to bottom of the tank’s inlet opening). You can find this information on the tank’s invert elevation page. For these crucial measurements, see the manufacturer’s most recent literature or website, or call us at 406-752-7163 for assistance.

Take into consideration the fact that the site where the tank will be installed must be accessible by large and highly laden vehicles with a maximum weight of up to 80,000 pounds.

It must be removed of all trees and branches, big boulders, overhead wires, underground utilities, and other structures that might be damaged or interfere with the delivery and unloading of the septic tank, as well as any other structures that could interfere with or be harmed by the septic tank.

If any damage occurs to the work site, the delivery vehicle, or the tank, the purchaser/installer is liable.

As a result, it is critical to provide appropriate access for delivery equipment to reach the excavation and remove the tank from the truck.

Because of this, it is recommended that a dedicated tank be installed to handle high traffic loads or unique scenarios.

EXCAVATION

All underground utilities should be identified and found BEFORE YOU DIG! This is for the safety of your backhoe (excavator) operator as well as the general public’s benefit. The recommended technique is as follows: To identify the dig site, you must file a locate request by dialing 811 at least 24 hours before you want to begin digging. More information may be found on the following website: Location Center in the Subterranean Space (UULC) Toll-free number: 1-800-424-5555 (or 811) Area of Coverage: All of MontanaUULC will call the impacted utilities, who will either send someone to mark their subterranean lines or notify you if their underground services will not be affected by your intended dig, depending on the situation.

Prepare the hole so that it is at least 18″ bigger than the tank, to provide for adequate area to compact the backfill material appropriately.

It is important to slant excavation walls for the sake of stability and worker safety.

Over a thoroughly compacted and uniformly level basis, a layer of pea gravel or sand of 5-6″ minimum is recommended overlaying the foundation.

Correct compaction of the underlying soil and sand/gravel bed is necessary in order to ensure that the tank is leveled and remains level when it is installed. Tanks will be harmed if they are allowed to bear down on huge stones, rocks, or cliff edges, for example.

Tank Placement

The first step after receiving your new tank is to check it while it is still on the truck to ensure that you have gotten the tank that is appropriately designed and proportioned according to your specifications. Any inconsistencies should be noted to the driver, who should then cross-check the tank with the Bill of Lading or Sales Order to ensure that everything is in order. Second, check the tank for any possible damage that may have occurred during the transportation process. Prior to installation, it is important to establish that the tank’s orientation is such that the input ports face the dwelling and the discharge outlets face the drain field or treatment facility.

Check to see that the pitch of the input pipe leading from the home to the tank complies with local regulations.

The suitable equipment or special lifting device will be used to ensure that it is handled appropriately and safely.

BACKFILLING

When backfilling, extreme caution should be exercised to avoid damaging or misaligning the entrance and exit pipes, the tank and fittings, and any other pipe joints. Ideally, backfill should be deposited in layers of less than 12″ thickness that are mechanically compacted and homogeneous in appearance. It is not necessary to backfill and compress one or two sides before backfilling and compacting the opposing sides. In most cases, excavated material may be utilized for backfill, but it should not contain any huge stones or boulders.

Even concrete tanks, on the other hand, can float if the water level surrounding them increases to a sufficient level.

This aids in keeping the tank in place and offers some protection against the tank being damaged during the compaction process.

Tanks that will be installed at a depth greater than this will require special traffic-rated lids to be installed.

GENERAL NOTES

Please do not get inside the tank!

Gases that are dangerous in enclosed environments can be found there. Only properly qualified professionals with the appropriate tests and protective equipment should contemplate entering a tank, and they should never do it by themselves.

SIZING

Generally, the number of bedrooms in a house and the amount of water that percolates through the soil on the subject land define the size of the septic system and tank required. When designing a septic system, keep in mind the possibility of future expansion requirements. If a septic system is overwhelmed, it will not be able to perform its functions correctly. A guarantee will not be provided for tanks that are under capacity or that have not been properly sized and fitted. Glacier Precast Concrete suggests that the tank capacity (septic chamber) be raised by 500 gallons if the owner has installed or plans to install a waste disposal (grinder) or if the owner anticipates doing so in the future.

In addition, it is critical that all entrance and exit pipework be linked using flexible compression fittings that are compliant with ASTM C 1227 and C 923 standards and specifications.

How a Septic System Works – and Common Problems

This Article Discusses Septic Tanks are a type of septic tank that is used to dispose of waste. Field Sizing and System MaintenanceProblems with the Leach FieldSystem Performance Questions and comments are welcome. See Also: Septic System Frequently Asked Questions Articles on SEPTIC SYSTEM may be found here. In locations where there are no municipal sewage systems, each residence is responsible for treating its own sewage on its own property, which is known as a “on-site sewage disposal system,” or septic system, more popularly.

One of the most commonly seen types of leach field is composed of a series of perforated distribution pipes, each of which is placed in a gravel-filled absorption trench.

SEPTIC TANK

The wastewater is collected in the septic tank once it has been discharged from the residence. Septic tanks are normally between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons in capacity and are composed of concrete, strong plastic, or metal, depending on the model. Highly durable concrete tanks, which should endure for 40 years or more provided they are not damaged, are the most common. Many contemporary tanks are designed with two chambers in order to maximize efficiency. Household wastewater is collected in the septic tank, where it is separated and begins to degrade before being discharged into the leach field.

1. In the tank, oil and grease float to the top of the tank, where they are known as scum, while solid waste falls to the bottom, where they are known as sludge.
2. Bacteria and other microorganisms feed on the sediments at the bottom of the tank, causing them to decompose in an anaerobic (without oxygen) process that begins at the bottom of the tank.
3. Solids and grease must be pushed out of the system on a regular basis in order for it to continue to function effectively.
4. Each gallon added to the tank results in one gallon being discharged to the leach field, leach pit, or other similar treatment facility.

A large amount of water delivered too rapidly to the tank may discharge untreated effluent, along with oil and particulates, into the leach field, where it may block the field and cause a backup.

Leach Field

When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to avoid freezing, but close enough to the surface that air can reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal regulations. It is customary to cover the perforated pipes with approximately two inches of gravel and a layer of topsoil that is 18 to 24 inches in depth.

1. Grass is often sown above the ground.
2. The leach field is comprised of rows of perforated pipes in gravel trenches that are used to spread wastewater over a vast area in order to further purify it.
3. A bacteria-rich slime mat forms where the gravel meets the soil, and it is responsible for the majority of the water purification work.
4. Despite the fact that wastewater freezes at a far lower temperature than pure water, freezing is still a hazard in cold areas.
5. The leftover pathogens are converted into essential plant nutrients by these organisms, while sand, gravel, and soil filter out any solids that remain.
6. If the system is operating effectively, the filtered wastewater will return to the aquifer as naturally clean water that is suitable for human consumption at this stage.
7. Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
8. Special systems may also be necessary in regions where there are flood plains, bodies of water, or other ecologically sensitive areas to protect against flooding.

SIZING THE LEACH FIELD

Using perforated pipes put in gravel-filled trenches, the drain field is sized to accommodate the number of beds in the house. In order for the system to function successfully, the leach field must be appropriately sized for the soil type and amount of wastewater, which is normally determined by the number of bedrooms in the house. In order for the liquid to seep into the soil, it must be permeable enough to do so. As a result, the denser the soil, the larger the leach field that is necessary.

1. Better to have surplus capacity in your system than to have it cut too close to the bone.
2. Septic tank backup into your house, pooling on the surface of the earth, or polluting local groundwater are all possibilities if the ground is incapable of absorbing the liquid.
3. Dense clay soils will not absorb the liquid at a sufficient rate, resulting in a backlog.
4. If the soil is mostly composed of coarse sand and gravel, it might drain at such a rapid rate that untreated sewage can poison the aquifer or damage surrounding bodies of water.
5. Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.

These systems sometimes cost twice or three times as much as a regular system and require significantly more upkeep. Near flood plains, bodies of water, and other ecologically sensitive places, special systems may also be necessary to protect people and property.

SEPTIC SYSTEM CAREMAINTENANCE REQUIRED

If you take good care of your system, you will be rewarded with years of trouble-free operation. Pumping the septic tank on a regular basis is necessary to remove the particles (sludge) and grease layer (scum) that have built up in the tank. The solids will ultimately overflow and spill into the leach field, decreasing its efficacy and diminishing its lifespan if this is not done. The rehabilitation of a clogged leach field is difficult, if not impossible; thus, constant pumping is essential!

• Cooking fats, grease, and particles may also wash into the leach field if the tank is too small for the amount of water being used or if the tank is overcrowded on a regular basis.
• Extra water from excessive residential consumption or yard drainage can overwhelm the system, transporting oil and particles into the leach field and causing it to overflow.
• In addition, don’t try to complete a week’s worth of laundry for a family of five in a single day.
• To minimize overburdening the system, the following measures should be taken:

• Distribute your washing loads and other high-water-use activities across the week
• And In the kitchen and bathroom, use low-flow appliances, faucets, and fixtures. Toilets, in general, are the source of the greatest amount of water use. Water should be diverted away from the leach field from the yard, gutters, and basement sump pumps.

In addition, refrain from flushing sediments, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biological waste and white toilet paper. Avoid using garbage disposals in the kitchen. If you really must have one, keep it for small non-meat bits only. Avoid flushing chemicals or paints down the toilet since many chemicals can destroy beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. Avoid flushing the following down the toilet:

• Grease, fats, and animal scraps
• Paints, thinners, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals
• And a variety of other materials sanitary napkins, tampons, and other supplies Paper towels and disposable diapers are examples of such products. Egg shells, coffee grounds, and nut shells are all good options. Antibacterial soaps and antibiotics are available.

It is preferable to put grass over the leach field and to refrain from driving or parking in the vicinity. Excessive weight placed on top of the drain field might compress the earth, diminishing its efficiency as a drain field. Drain pipes can also become clogged by trees and plants with invasive roots. In order to prevent damage to the leach field, the following measures should be taken:

• Heavy machinery should not be driven, parked, or stored on top of the leach field (or septic tank). Placement of a deck, patio, pool, or any other sort of construction over the leach field is prohibited. Remove any large trees or other plants with deep roots from the leach field. Grass is the most effective groundcover.

Even with careful use and routine maintenance, however, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. It is inevitable that the soil will get saturated with dissolved elements from the wastewater, and that the soil will be unable to absorb any more incoming water. The presence of an odorous wet area over the leach field, as well as plumbing backups in the house, are frequently the first indicators that something is wrong. Many municipalities mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field” in the case that the first field fails.

A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not longer than that. After a few tears, the initial field will naturally heal and may be used once again when the situation calls for it to be. More information on Septic System Maintenance may be found here.

SEPTIC SYSTEM PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

Poor original design, abuse, or physical damage, such as driving heavy trucks over the leach field, are the root causes of the majority of septic system issues. The following are examples of common situations that might cause a septic system to operate poorly: Plumbing in the home. obstructed or insufficient plumbing vents, a blockage between the home and the septic tank, or an insufficient pitch in the sewer line leading from the house are all possible causes. Sewage tank to leach field connection Septic tank and leach field blockage caused by a closed or damaged tank outlet, a plugged line leading to the leach field caused by tree roots, or a blockage caused by sediments that overflowed from the tank Piping in the leach field.

• Most of the time, tree roots do not make their way through the gravel bed and into the perforated pipe.
• Reduced flows, achieved through the use of flow restrictors and low-flow faucets and fixtures, may be beneficial.
• Because of the seasonal high water table, the soil around the trenches might get saturated, reducing the soil’s ability to absorb wastewater.
• This may frequently be remedied by adding subsurface drains or curtain drains to intercept the water flow into the leach field region and to lower the water table in the immediate area around the drainage system.
• Likewise, see: In order to do a perc test, who should I hire?
• Is It Possible for Septic Systems to Last a Lifetime?
• Performing an Inspection on a Septic System When Is the Best Time to Take a Perc Test?
• Examination of the WellSEPTIC SYSTEMView allSEPTIC SYSTEMarticles Return to the top of the page

» Installation Instructions

Underground Plastic Tank Installation|Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation is a type of underground plastic tank installation.

Underground Plastic Tank Installation

EXCAVATION

• Choose a location with adequate subsoil drainage. Allow enough space around the tank for the backfill to be properly placed and compacted around the lower half of the tank Provision of a well-compacted or undisturbed bedding of sand/gravel combination or clean, granular soil: 6 inches or more in rock terrain, depending on the kind of terrain. Form the bedding to fit the underside of the tank.

SETTING UP THE TANK

• Input and outlet orientations
• Shipping damage
• Serial number (for Warranty Form)
• And other information.

To level the inlet and exit, place a pipe level across the access cover. It is critical that the outflow is located below the level of the entrance. CAUTION: Use caution when handling. A heavy hit, particularly in cold weather, might cause the tank to break. IN ORDER TO AVOID FLOTATION OR DISTORTION

• If poly tanks are pumped out during periods of high water table, they run the danger of floating or distorting at the base. During really rainy weather, keep the tank just partly full. Installation of a vertical length of 4′′ perforated drainage pipe beside the tank with a detachable cover above grade level to monitor the water table level after it has been filled is recommended. Attach the label provided on the standpipe. Avoid pumping the tank out below the water table at all costs. Drainage lines should be run from under the tank out to daylight and downward away from it if the tank is on sloping terrain.

BACKFILLING

• It is required that the tank be refilled when it is either empty or less than 30 percent full. The backfilling technique does not necessitate the use of water. If the tank has been filled for leak testing, empty it to 30 percent or less before refilling it. Backfill with a maximum of 12′′ layers of granular soil or clean fill and trample the soil to ensure even distribution. THERE WILL BE NO CLAY BACKFILL. The backfill must be correctly put and compacted around the lower part of the tank, which is very important. Do not place the machine compact near the tank. It is not recommended to dump significant amounts of fill near to the tank. Check the level of the tank on a regular basis. Make certain that the backfill under the inlet and output pipe connectors is compacted. Build up the support beneath the pipelines to prevent probable pipe breakage caused by the settling of backfill over time. If the tank has become heated due to exposure to sunshine, leave it to cool before continuing with the backfilling. If there is no riser, waterproof tape should be used to seal the lids.

CONNECTIONS FOR PIPE:

• Make connections to the tank only when it is improbable that the tank will shift throughout the remainder of the backfilling. Rubber couplings of the type “Fernco” should be used
• All water tanks must be vented through pipe with a minimum diameter of 2 inches
• To allow pipes to deflect with tank expansion (in the case of water tanks), 90-degree elbows should be installed at output bulkhead connections. Make use of at least a 3-foot-long flexible hose from the pumps to allow for movement (if they are installed).

IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS FOR INSTALLATION:

• Tanks are used for burying the dead. For above-ground installations, consult the manufacturer. In the absence of special approval, tanks are designed to withstand up to TWO FEET of earth cover at 300 lbs./square foot. A SUPERTANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
• FLOUT DOSING TANKS are capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
• A FLOUT DOSING TANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and four pounds per square foot of floor space
• Do not place yourself in the line of moving cars or heavy equipment. Keep a safe distance from big roots or rocks. Placement of the tank should be avoided in locations with a high water table. Use a reinforced tank in areas with a high water table
• Avoid putting the tank in damp clay soils
• And Surface runoff should be diverted away from the tank area. Fresh backfill has pores in it. Runoff might clog the area around the tank.

Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in where the tank is installed.

If you live outside of British Columbia, check with the factory. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty will be voided.

Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation

WHAT KIND OF FOUNDATION IS REQUIRED?

• It is necessary to have a sturdy, flat base that is continuous under the whole tank
• Sand, fine gravel, clean soil, cement, or boards that are adequately supported and precisely spaced can be used as a base. Remove any pebbles that are bigger than half an inch in diameter. After filling the tank, check to see that it has not sunk and is still upright.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE A PLATFORM? Although it is possible, the tank bottom must be continually maintained, for example, with two layers of 3-4 inch plywood nailed together and to a sufficient support framework. In the sake of safety, it is recommended that an engineer be consulted. It is important to remember that the weight of water is 8.33 pounds per US gallon and 10 pounds per Canadian gallon. WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE TANKS?

• The weight of above-ground tanks can be approximated by dividing the gallon capacity by five, which yields the following result: For example, a 1000-gallon tank will weigh around 200 pounds. For underground tanks, multiply the gallon capacity by three to get the volume.

DO THEY APPEAR TO BE EASY TO MANAGE?

• Almost all of the tanks may be transported using a pickup truck or a trailer. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust substance, it is doubtful that any damage would occur during cautious handling and transit. Extreme cold weather necessitates extra caution due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more fragile.

Is it possible to put pressure in the tank? NO! At all times, polyethylene tanks must be exposed to the outside environment or vented. Because they are mounted at a greater height, they can be utilized to supply a head of water, but they are not capable of being exposed to any external pressure sources. If required, install a float valve on the intake line. WHAT ABOUT THE PRODUCTION OF ALGAE? The entry of light into the tank encourages the growth of algae. Keeping the tank away from direct sunlight and using a darker tank color, as well as sanitation, can help to keep algae development under control.

• Tanks are designed expressly for usage above or below ground, depending on their intended function. Above-ground tanks feature smooth sides and are exclusively intended for installation on the ground. The tanks may, however, be lowered into the ground to a depth equal to 20 percent of the tank’s height in order to lower the tank’s above-ground profile

WHAT ACCESSORIES ARE INCLUDED WITH THE TANK?

• The bottom of the majority of above-ground water tanks is equipped with a 1 inch or 2 inch female threaded pipe connection, while the top is equipped with a 16 inch access cap. Breather valves are included into the access caps, allowing air to enter and exit when the water level changes. Making the necessary connections can be accomplished with the assistance of a local plumber or plumbing supply company. Check to verify that the bulkhead drain/outlet fittings are securely fastened to the tank. As a result, while tightening external connections, the lock nut on the fittings features a reverse thread to prevent it from coming free. Hand tighten threads several rounds to ensure that the threads are aligned and that the possibility of stripping is minimized. When the tank is completely full, check for leaks and tighten only enough to prevent any leaks. Excessive tightening may result in the threads of the pipe being stripped or the bulkhead fittings being cracked, requiring replacement. Additional connections for intake pipes are provided on an as-needed basis in response to client requests. Pipe Sizing Chart may be used to determine approximate pipe sizes.

DOES SUNLIGHT HAVE ANY IMPACT ON THE TANKS?

• Over time, exposure to sunshine causes the plastic to harden, making it more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. Almost all of Premier Plastics’ tanks are treated with a UV inhibitor, which helps to reduce the hardening process. Tanks that are darker in color or black will likely survive longer.

With repeated exposure to sunshine, the plastic becomes harder and more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. In order to reduce the hardening action, all Premier Plastics tanks are treated with an ultraviolet inhibitor. Black or dark-colored tanks will generally last longer than lighter-colored tanks.

• Rainwater collection is a good technique to bridge periods of limited water supply. The usage of a filter basket is recommended to screen out leaves, twigs, and other material that may enter the gutter system from the eaves troughs. Boiling or disinfection of water is required for all uses including drinking, cooking, and dishwashing. It is possible to use clean rainwater for large-volume applications such as toilet flushing and laundry, showering, cleaning automobiles, and watering the yard. A ‘Pneumatic Dipstick’ level gauge from Premier Plastics may be used to monitor the water level in a container.

WHAT IS THE DURATION OF THE WARRANTY?

• However, you can expect many more years of service from your above-ground tanks, which are covered by an eight-year warranty. All underground water tanks and septic tanks are covered by a ten-year manufacturer’s guarantee. Polyethylene will persist practically indefinitely in the subsurface environment. Fill out the warranty form and send it back to Premier Plastics Inc.

ARE THE TANKS SAFE FOR USING AS DRINKING WATER STORAGE?

• No. Our food-grade polyethylene tanks are built in accordance with FDA rules 21 CFR 177.1520(c)3.1, NSF Standard 61, and Canadian Standards Association (CSA) 6861-05
• And, yes, they are recyclable. It is, of course, your job to ensure that the water in the tank is of high quality. Water quality information may be received from a variety of sources, including water delivery corporations, well drillers, and public health authorities. A new tank’s bottom may include small particles of polyethylene that have been cleaned but not disinfected. Factory tanks are clean but not disinfected. These are created while cutting holes for fittings and will float to the surface when filled or can be cleaned out
• They are created when cutting holes for fittings.

WILL I BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN TASTE?

• Ideally, your pipework should be linked in such a manner that incoming water is constantly flushing through the tank
• Water that has been sitting in any form of vented container for an extended amount of time will develop a “flat” flavor. This is due to the fact that the water has lost its ability to hold air. This may be partially remedied by half-filling a closed jar with water and rapidly shaking it to introduce air back into it

HOW CAN A STORAGE TANK ASSIST A SLOW PRODUCING BUSINESS SUCCESS?

• Numerous customers are reporting a decrease in the flow rate from their water wells. Well pumps are often designed to generate water “on demand,” which means that if your bathtub fills at a rate of 5 gallons per minute, the well must supply water at a rate of 5 gallons per minute for the whole time the bath is running. Using a storage tank, short times of high demand may be met by drawing from the tank rather than straight from the well. If a storage tank is employed, a household consuming 400 gallons per day would require their well to generate no more than 400 gallons over the course of 24 hours. On average, a well only has to produce half a gallon per minute for 24 hours to fulfill a family’s water demands. A popular technique is to drop a truckload of water down a slow-producing well in order to speed up production. There would be no loss of water due to seepage if all water deliveries were stored into a storage tank, resulting in cost savings. Your local well driller can provide you with system sizing and planning information.

HOW DOES IT EXPERIENCE IF MY TANK FREEZES?

• It is improbable that a tank that is just partly filled will rupture. The ice will cause the walls to bulge as a result of the pressure. Only over prolonged periods of cold weather can a tank become prone to freezing. Piping should be shielded or drained during freezing weather since the lesser volume of water in the piping will freeze more quickly and may cause the pipe to split. Consult with a contractor who is knowledgeable with the conditions
• The tank can be insulated with a waterproof insulation or housed in an insulated shed if the risk of freezing is high. An underground tank provides the best protection against freezing conditions. It will also help to keep the water cold throughout the hot months.